Middle East - Anthony Ham [372]
THE OLD CITY
Old Sidon, a fascinating labyrinth of vaulted souqs, tiny alleyways and medieval remnants, stretches out behind the buildings fronting the harbour. Officially, there are 60 listed historic sights here, many in ruins, although renovation work is ongoing.
In the souqs you’ll find craftspeople plying the same trades their ancestors did for centuries. There are plenty of opportunities to pick up the local fragrant orange-blossom water (good in both sweet and savoury cooking, or as a cordial for summer drinks) and sanioura, a light, crumbly, shortcake-like biscuit.
A highlight of the souq area is the Khan al-Franj (Inn of the Foreigners; admission free; 10am-6pm), the most beautiful and best preserved of all the limestone khans built by Fakhreddine (Fakhr ad-Din al-Maan II) in the 17th century. Wonderfully restored, it consists of vaulted arcades surrounding a large rectangular courtyard with a central fountain. Today, it houses the Hariri Foundation, founded by assassinated former PM Rafiq Hariri, which works on various restoration projects throughout the city and beyond.
Just behind the Khan al-Franj is the Bab as-Saray Mosque, the oldest in Sidon, dating from 1201 and filled with beautiful stonework. It may not always be open to non-Muslims, so check before entering. Another gem is the Palace Debbané (Al-Moutran St, Souq; admission free; 9am-6pm Sat-Thu) entered from the souq via a tall staircase marked with a sign. Built in 1721, this former Ottoman aristocrat’s building has intricate Mamluk decoration, including tile work and cedar wood ceilings, and various historical exhibits.
Facing the northern tip of the harbour is the Great (Omari) Mosque (admission free), said to be one of the finest examples of Islamic religious architecture of the 13th century and originally converted from a fortified Knights Hospitaller structure. Severely damaged by the Israeli bombings of 1982, it underwent a long restoration, and now looks spectacular once again; it’s open to non-Muslims outside prayer times and, as always, remember to dress appropriately.
SEA CASTLE
Erected in 1228 by the Crusaders, the Sea Castle (Qasr al-Bahr; admission LL4000; 9am-6pm summer, to 4pm winter) sits on a small island that was formerly the site of a temple dedicated to Melkart, the Phoenician version of Hercules, and is connected to the mainland by a fortified stone causeway. Like many other coastal castles, it was largely destroyed by the Mamluks to prevent the Crusaders returning to the region, but was renovated by Fakhreddine II in the 17th century. On calm days, you can see numerous broken rose granite columns lying on the sea floor beneath the castle; archaeologists think there’s plenty more of this sort of history to be discovered further off Sidon’s coast.
MUSEE DU SAVON (SOAP MUSEUM)
Located in an old soap factory dating from the 17th century, this surprisingly interesting museum ( 733 353; Rue al-Moutran; admission free; 9am-6pm Sat-Thu) is Lebanon’s only museum of that most humble yet indispensable of products. Well laid-out, with trilingual explanations (Arabic, English, French) on the art of ‘saponification’ (which we non-saponifiers might simply call ‘soapmaking’), the museum also hosts a stylish café and a boutique with some lovely illustrated history and cookery books, as well, of course, as the foaming white stuff itself.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel d’Orient ( 720 364; Rue Shakrieh, Souq, Old City; dm/s with fan US$5/7, d with fan US$10-12) Grim and grimy, this is really only an option for those on their last Lebanese lira. It’s on the right-hand side as you walk from the harbour to the soap museum: look for the faded 1st-floor sign.
Yacoub Hotel ( 737 733; Rue al-Moutrah; s/d US$40/60; ) This clean, quiet choice is housed in a converted 200-year-old building and offers spotless, comfortable and attractive rooms. You’ll see it signposted off to the left on