Middle East - Anthony Ham [374]
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WHO IS HASSAN NASRALLAH?
Born in 1960 in a poor Beirut suburb, Hassan Nasrallah has gained international notoriety in recent years for being the public face and voice of Hezbollah, since becoming its Secretary-General in 1992.
His career began in 1975 when he joined the Amal movement, a Shiite militia, during the civil war. Following a period of religious study in Iraq, he joined Hezbollah in 1982 after Israel’s invasion of Lebanon, and soon became known for his charismatic brand of fierce and fiery rhetoric. In 1992, he took on the role of Secretary-General after Hezbollah’s former leader was killed in an Israeli helicopter attack. Nasrallah’s own eldest son, Muhammed, was later killed in combat with Israel in 1997.
Often branded a terrorist by the West, Nasrallah has publicly criticised both the Taliban and Al-Qaeda, but remains set on the destruction of Israel. His leadership has seen Hezbollah responsible for kidnappings and bombings, as well as for far-reaching social, medical and educational programs throughout the impoverished south and beyond.
For a glimpse of ‘Nasrallah, by Nasrallah’, visit his website at http://english.wa3ad.org.
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Orientation & Information
The old part of Tyre lies on the peninsula jutting out into the sea. The modern town is on the left-hand side as you arrive from Beirut. Behind the port is the Christian quarter, with its tiny alleys and old houses with shaded courtyards.
Banks with ATMs and the post office ( 740 565; 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) are clustered near the service taxi stand in the town centre. Internet cafés include:
Alfanet ( 347 047; off Rue Abu Deeb; per hr LL1500; 10.30am-1am) Just north of the main roundabout.
Swiss.Net ( 03-446 154; Rue Nabih Berri; per hr LL1000; 9am-midnight)
Sights
In 1984, Tyre was declared a Unesco World Heritage site, and its archaeological remains are divided into three parts: Al-Mina (Areas 1 and 2) on the south side of the city, Al-Bass (Area 3) on the original mainland section, and a medieval site in the centre of town. Taking a guide is highly recommended here: a long tour should cost LL10,000 to LL15,000, or LL20,000 for a larger group.
The Al-Mina Archaeological Site (Areas 1 & 2; 740 115; adult/child LL6000/3500; 8.30am-30min before sunset) covers a large area leading down to the ancient Egyptian submerged harbour, created in the 3rd millennium BC. It features a mosaic street paved with impressive geometrical Roman and Byzantine mosaics, on each side of which are rows of large columns, made of green marble imported from Greece. Look out also for the unusually large public Roman bathhouse from the 2nd or 3rd century AD and a 4th-century rectangular arena, which would have held up to 2000 spectators, perhaps to watch some sort of ancient watersport.
A five-minute walk north of the main Al-Mina site brings you to the ruins of a 12th-century Crusader cathedral, along with a network of Roman and Byzantine roads.
The enormous Al-Bass Archaeological Site (Area 3; 740 530; adult/child LL6000/3500; 8.30am-30min before sunset) lies 2km from the Al-Mina site. Just past the entrance is a vast funerary complex, with hundreds of ornate stone and marble ancient sarcophagi lining the road, some intricately carved with the names of the occupants or reliefs drawn from the Iliad. A well-preserved Roman road stretches in a straight line for about 1.6km from an impressive 20m-high monumental archway, which probably dates from the time of Emperor Hadrian (2nd century AD). Beyond the archway is the largest and best preserved Roman hippodrome in the world (holding more than 20,000 spectators), built in the 2nd century AD for the ancient adrenalin sport of chariot racing. At the far end of the road are the remains of Roman aqueducts, parts of which are still held up by arcades.
Sleeping
Tyre’s midrange sleeping options aren’t really up to much