Middle East - Anthony Ham [376]
Although conceived by Italian architects, the palace incorporates many traditional forms of Arab architecture. The main gate opens on to a 60m-wide outer courtyard (Dar al-Baraniyyeh) walled on three sides only; the fourth side has great views out over valleys and hills.
A double staircase on the outer courtyard’s western side leads into a smaller central courtyard (Dar al-Wousta) with a central fountain. Beyond this courtyard is the third – and last – inner courtyard (Dar al-Harim). This was the centre of the family quarters, which also included a beautiful hammam and huge kitchens.
Underneath the Dar al-Wousta and Dar al-Harim are the former stables, now home to an outstanding collection of 5th- and 6th-century Byzantine mosaics. Found at Jiyyeh, 30km south of Beirut, they were brought by Walid Jumblatt to Beiteddine in 1982. Whatever you do, don’t miss them: they’re truly stunning.
The palace hosts a wonderful annual music festival during July and August. Check the festival website (www.beiteddine.org) for full details.
SLEEPING & EATING
Beiteddine Palace is really best experienced by a day trip from Beirut or from the lovely nearby Deir al-Qamar (right).
The only sleeping option nearby is the ultraluxurious Mir Amin Palace ( 05-501 315; www.miraminpalace.com; s/d US$123/155; ), originally built by Emir Bashir for his eldest son. There are 24 beautifully decorated rooms here, and a lovely bar/restaurant worth a visit for the views alone. Expect to spend around US$30 to US$40 per person for a full meal of its delicious Lebanese cuisine.
Aside from a few snack bars, Beiteddine doesn’t really have any other food options: pack yourself a picnic from Beirut or Deir al-Qamar, and eat it in the palace garden beside the beautiful open-air mosaics.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Service taxis from Beirut’s Cola transport hub run from Beirut to Beiteddine (LL5000, two hours, roughly hourly). The service taxi stand in Beiteddine is close to the palace on the main square; bear in mind that there are few service taxis after dark.
Deir al-Qamar
05
Without question one of Lebanon’s prettiest villages, this interesting small town, a few kilometres from Beiteddine, was the seat of Lebanon’s emirates during the 17th and 18th centuries, and today is a sleepy, enchanting place for a lazy stroll and a sunset drink, while bats flit from ancient buildings all about you.
The main square has some fine examples of Arab architecture, including the Mosque of Emir Fakhreddine Maan built in 1493; a silk khan built in 1595 and now housing the French Cultural Centre; and the 18th-century Serail of Youssef Chehab, which saw a bloody factional massacre in its central courtyard in 1860.
On the main square,Fakhreddine’s Palace, built in 1620, is now home to the dusty yet curiously endearing Marie Baz Wax Museum ( 511 666; adult/child LL10,000/5000; 8.30am-sunset), featuring a smattering of Lebanon’s historic personalities, as well as George Bush senior and a weird, headless Jumblatt. If you listen politely to his lengthy commentaries, the elderly attendant might unlock the nearby Cheikh Jiriz Baz summer palace – now derelict – for you to see the fairytale views from the roof.
Just outside town, 2km down the road toward Beiteddine, don’t miss Lebanon’s most eccentric ‘outsider art’ masterpiece at Castle Moussa ( 041 144; admission LL7500; 8am-8pm summer, 8am-6pm winter), a modern castle built by a local businessman that houses an eclectic collection of moving dioramas, mechanical tableaux, and thousands upon thousands of guns. Prepare to be bemused and impressed in equal measure.
SLEEPING & EATING