Middle East - Anthony Ham [385]
Visa Extensions
To extend your one-month visa to a three-month visa, go to the General Security Office (Map; 1717, 01-429 060/061; Rue de Damas, Beirut; 8am-1pm Mon-Thu, 8-10am Fri, 8am-noon Sat) in Beirut, a few days before your first month ends. Take a passport photo, your passport, and photocopies of your passport ID page and the page where your entry visa was stamped.
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WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Lebanon, in general, is an easy destination for solo female travellers, more akin in attitudes to neighbouring Israel than, for example, to next-door Syria. Revealing, Western-style clothes are common in Beirut and Jounieh, and in the beach clubs that line the sands from Sidon up to Byblos, but outside the main centres long-sleeved, loose clothing is still preferable. This is particularly the case in the south, the north around Tripoli and in the Bekaa Valley, all predominantly Muslim areas, and, of course, when entering holy places. For further advice for female travellers Click here.
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TRANSPORT IN LEBANON
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
You can travel to Lebanon by air, or by land from Syria. Note, though, that political tensions have often been known to close land borders between Lebanon and Syria, so check locally at your time of travel that the borders are open.
Air
Beirut Rafic Hariri International airport (BEY; 01-628 000; www.beirutairport.gov.lb) is Lebanon’s only airport. The national carrier, Middle East Airlines (MEA; in Beirut 01-737 000; www.mea.com.lb), has an extensive network including flights to and from Europe and to the Arab world. It’s reliable and has a decent safety record.
The following international airlines, among others, currently service Beirut:
Air France (AF; 01-977 977; www.airfrance.com; Beirut)
Cyprus Airways (CY; 01-362 237; www.cyprusairways.com; Beirut)
EgyptAir (MS; 01-973 330; www.egyptair.com.eg; Beirut)
Emirates (EK; 01-734 535; www.emirates.com; Beirut)
Gulf Air (GF; 01-323 332; www.gulfairco.com; Beirut)
Lufthansa (LH; 01-347 007; www.lufthansa.com; Beirut)
Malaysia Airlines (MH; 01-741 344; www.mas.com.my; Beirut)
Royal Jordanian Airline (RJ; 01-379 990; www.rja.com.jo; Beirut)
Turkish Airlines (TK; 01-999 849; www.turkishairlines.com; Beirut)
Land
BORDER CROSSINGS
The only land crossings from Lebanon are into Syria (the Israel–Lebanon land border has not been open for some years). Note, though, that these are often closed at short notice, so check in advance that they’re open before travel. There are four in total, but the most reliably open crossing is at Masnaa, on the Beirut–Damascus highway. The other three are at Al-Qaa, at the northern end of the Bekaa Valley; Aarida, on the coastal road from Tripoli to Lattakia; and Aaboudiye on the Tripoli to Homs route.
So long as the borders are open, citizens of most countries can obtain a Lebanese visa at the border (see Visas, opposite for more details). Some travellers occasionally manage to obtain their Syrian visa at the Lebanese border, but this is a decidedly hit-and-miss affair, and could end up frustrating if you’re denied entry. It’s far better to arrange your Syrian visa in advance of travel to Lebanon.
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JUST ACROSS THE BORDER: CRAC DES CHEVALIERS & DAMASCUS, SYRIA
Every traveller you’ve talked to in Lebanon who’s already been to Syria has been raving about how unmissable its Crac des Chevaliers castle (Qala’at al-Hosn; Click here) is, and how heady, historic Damascus (Click here) is the highlight, so far, of their trip. How can you help, then, but yearn