Middle East - Anthony Ham [392]
And one other thing: Syrian hotels quote their prices in a mixture of US dollars, euros (increasingly the currency of choice) and, less often, Syrian pounds. Apart from top-end hotels, most places let you pay in any of the three currencies regardless of how they quote their prices, although make sure you’re getting the best exchange rate.
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On a more positive note, Syria confirmed in May 2008 that it was conducting indirect peace negotiations with Israel, with the Turkish government acting as intermediaries. Although still in their preliminary stages and with major outstanding issues not yet on the table – the status of Israeli-occupied Golan Heights and the fate of Palestinian refugees to name just two – the talks were the first, tentative signs that Syria’s international isolation may one day be a thing of the past. More promisingly, in mid-2008 Syria and Lebanon entered a new period of détente, promising to open embassies in each other’s capitals and improving co-operation.
For news of what’s happening in Syria, albeit with restrictions, check out Syria News Wire (http://saroujah.blogspot.com).
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THE CULTURE
Daily Life
In the public realm, Syrians face a number of challenges common to the region. On one level, Syrians are well educated with an overall literacy rate of around 80% (86% for men, 74% for women). School attendance is compulsory for children aged between six and 12, and there are four national public universities, which have combined enrolments of almost 200,000. At the same time, unemployment is far higher than the official rate of 10% suggests and inflation (officially around 10%) is threatening to run out of control. Compounding the problem, wages are low – average government salaries are just US$300 per month and university graduates such as doctors rarely earn more than US$700. The consequence is that the country faces a serious ‘brain drain’, with many graduates heading overseas to find better-paying work. The obligatory 30-months military service for all 18 year-old males may also be playing its part.
In the private sphere, family ties are extremely close, families are large, and extended families often live together. Rural–urban migration over recent years now means that about half of the country’s population lives in the cities.
Population
Syria has a population of around 20.5 million, about 90% of which is Arab. Minorities such as the Bedouin Arabs (about 100,000) and smaller groupings of Armenians, Circassians and Turks are among the population. There are also around one million Kurds.
The country has an annual population growth of around 2.2%. Although this represents a decline from the 3.6% growth that was seen during the 1990s, it’s still high by international standards. One-third of Syrians are under 15 years old, with the average age of the population just 21.4 years of age.
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RELIGION
Islam is practised by about 84% of the population. Between 15% and 20% of this is made up of minorities such as Shiite, Druze and Alawite, while the remainder are Sunni Muslims. Christians account for the remaining 16% of the population and belong to various churches including Greek Orthodox, Greek Catholic, Syrian Orthodox, Armenian Orthodox, Maronite, Roman Catholic and Protestant.
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ARTS
Syria has contributed some of the Arab world’s best-loved cultural figures, but cultural