Middle East - Anthony Ham [400]
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TOURS
Al-Rabie ( 231 8374) and Al-Haramain hotels ( 231 9489) organise popular day trips (minibus and private car). Prices depend on numbers, but are about US$35 to US$40 per person. Possibilities include day trips to: Bosra, Suweida and the Sayyida Zeinab Mosque; Crac des Chevaliers; Apamea; and Maalula, Seidnayya and Jebel Qassioun. Though considerably more expensive than by public transport, you’ll save a lot of time.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Damascus Jazz Festival (July) In the citadel.
Silk Road Festival (late September) Celebrates Syria’s long cultural history with events in Damascus, Aleppo, Palmyra and Bosra.
Damascus International Film Festival (November to December) Local and international films (you can see most of the films in Syria at other times too).
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SLEEPING
The Damascus hotel scene is getting better all the time, although it remains the case that the best options are in the budget and top-end categories. It’s not that there aren’t good midrange choices; rather, there are very few that are especially exciting.
For student accommodation, try House of Damascus (Map; 094 431 8068; www.houseofdamascus.com; per month S£10,000-15,000). Set in a lovely old Damascus house not far from the Umayyad Mosque, the rooms have shared bath and there’s dial-up internet connections, a fridge, satellite TV and two shared kitchens.
Budget
Sharia Bahsa, in the Souq al-Saroujah district, is the budget travellers’ ghetto. Here you’ll find two perennial favourites, Al-Rabie and Al-Haramain, and the newcomer Ghazal House. These are usually full, making bookings essential.
Al-Saada Hotel (Map; off Souq al-Saroujah; 231 1722; fax 231 1875; dm S£350, d S£800-1000, tr S£1500) From the same people who brought you the Hotel Al-Rabie, Al-Saada Hotel (also signed as Al-Saade), is a good option if the other three budget places are full. If that sounds like we’re damning with faint praise, remember that those other three are top-notch. The rooms are simple and surround a small shady courtyard. Breakfast is S£100.
Al-Rabie Hotel (Map; 231 8374; alrabiehotel@hotmail.com; Sharia Bahsa; roof mattress/dm S£250/400, d/tr S£1500/1700, s/d without bathroom 600/1000) One of the best backpacker choices in all the Middle East, this enchanting 600-year-old house has a gorgeous courtyard featuring trailing vines, an orange tree and a fountain. Modern additions include a satellite TV and comfortable seating. Some rooms look onto the courtyard and some feature ornate high ceilings, large windows and exposed stonework; all are clean and have heating and fans. The staff is friendly and traveller-savvy. Breakfast is S£100.
Ghazal Hotel (Map; 231 3736; www.ghazalhotel.com; Sharia Bahsa; roof mattress/dm/s/d S£250/400/800/1200) This friendly, clean hotel gets rave reviews from travellers. Its ample public areas don’t quite have the character of the others further west, but the overall package is outstanding.
Al-Haramain Hotel (Map; 231 9489; alharamain_hotel@yahoo.com; Sharia Bahsa; dm/d S£250/1800, s/d without bathroom S£720/1225) Another attractive old house, Al-Haramain has basic rooms and only two have private bathrooms, but the comfortable beds, clean linen and covered courtyard get the nod from us. Our only reservation is that management crams as many guests into dorm rooms as possible.
Midrange
Breakfast costs an additional €2 unless otherwise stated.
Salam Hotel (Map; 221 6674; salamhotel@mail2world.com; Sharia ar-Rais; s/d/tr €20/25/30; ) In a quiet but central location just up the hill south of the National Museum, the Salam is clean and all rooms come with satellite TV. Some are looking a little worn, but it’s a comfortable, tranquil choice that’s more central than it appears on the map: a slow stroll to the Old City takes 15 minutes.
Sultan Hotel (Map; 222 5768; sultan.hotel@mail.sy; Sharia Mousalam al-Baroudi; s/d €21/26, 5-bed room €90; ) Just west of the Hejaz station and a