Middle East - Anthony Ham [404]
Al-Khawali (Map; 222 5808; cnr Maazanet al-Shahim; meals from S£550; noon-2am) This is where Syria’s president brings eminent international guests for a meal and it’s not just because of the discreet, impeccable service or the beautifully renovated courtyard that was first built in 1368. A touch of class pervades this place, off Straight St, unlike the more casual atmosphere that you find elsewhere, and the food is first rate – devotees swear the Syrian cuisine is some of the best in the city. Try the aubergine and see what great mezze is all about, or the jedy bzeit (lamb with lemon sauce), but everything on the menu is subtly flavoured and delicious. Best of all, bread baked on the premises arrives on your table still warm from the oven. No alcohol or credit cards.
Elissar (Map; 542 4300; Sharia ad-Dawamneh, Bab Touma; meals around S£600; ) This elegant restaurant is named after a Phoenician princess, and its decor and menu are impressive enough to claim such a pedigree, although some locals reckon it’s not what it was. Situated in an enormous old house with tables filling the courtyard and two upper levels of terraces, it serves up refined Syrian dishes and a few French-influenced mains, washed down by selections from a good wine and arak list. They don’t take credit cards and most menus don’t list prices.
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BEST PLACES TO PEOPLE-WATCH IN SYRIA CHOCOLOCA
Aleppo In the early evening, everyone promenades in Aleppo (Click here).
Ice-cream shop in Damascus The famous ice-cream shop (Click here) in Souq al-Hamidiyya is always a hub of activity. Watch ice cream being stretched and slapped, then rolled in pistachio nuts. Watch men smoke and chat downstairs, or join with the women and children upstairs.
Palmyra at sunset Just before sunset, tourists and locals alike journey to Zenobia’s castle which overlooks the ancient city of Palmyra (Click here). As the golden light paints the ruins, lovers and families appear, then disperse, each to a favourite place to dine alfresco.
By the sea in Lattakia Along Lattakia’s (Click here) seafront is a promenade where everyone goes to see and to be seen. Sit at a cliffside café to watch men watch ladies.
What’s your recommendation?
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Aldar Restaurant (Map; 544 5900; meals S£700; 11am-2am) In a chic conversion of an old Damascene building off Sharia Bab Sharqi, beside the Assieh School, and stylishly blending old and new, Aldar dishes up some of the tastiest Syrian cuisine in the city, with creative touches added to classics. For starters, don’t miss the spicy sojok meatballs with a green pepper, onion and tomato sauce. Book a table for the live jazz on Tuesday night. Alcohol is served, and credit cards are accepted.
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DRINKING
There are loads of places in the Souq al-Saroujah backpacker district, with the low outdoor stools a great place to discuss regional politics and local popular culture over a tea. Tea or coffee costs about S£50.
The finest places to relax in Damascus are the two historic coffeehouses, Al-Nawfara Coffee Shop (right) and Ash-Shams (Map; Sharia al-Qaimariyya; 9am-midnight), nestled in the shadow of the Umayyad Mosque’s eastern wall. Lingering over a tea here should be on every visitor’s itinerary.
Coffee Shop – Ecological & Biological Garden (Map; 9am-11pm) Just outside the northeastern corner of the citadel, near Bab al-Farag and overlooking the trickle that is the Barada River, this agreeable modern coffee shop has outdoor and indoor tables alongside a garden set up by the Syria Environment Association. Although the plants need time to mature, it’s an initiative worth supporting, quite apart from being a pleasant place to rest from the clamour of the Old City.
Galerie Albal (Map; 544 5794; Sharia Shaweesh) For something a bit different, Galerie Albal, about a