Middle East - Anthony Ham [411]
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
There are two bus stations: the new ‘hob-hob’ minibus station, about 8km south of the city centre on the Damascus road; and the main ‘luxury’ bus station (Karajat Pullman), about 2.5km northeast of the city on the Hama road. To get between town and the main bus station costs around S£40; between town and the microbus station costs up to S£60.
From the Pullman Garage, Al-Ahliah and Al-Kadmous have the most frequent departures, including at least hourly to Damascus (S£130, two hours) and Aleppo (S£140, 2½ hours). Other, less-regular departures include Tartus (S£70, one hour), Lattakia (S£180, 3½ hours) and Palmyra (S£135, two hours). Buses go to Hama (S£35, 30 minutes, half hourly).
Bright, new minibuses flit in and out of the ‘hob-hob’ bus station, most of them going to Hama (S£35, 45 minutes). They depart when full and you can generally turn up at any time, climb straight in, and expect to be away in less than 10 minutes.
Click here for details of getting to Crac des Chevaliers.
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HAMA
033 / pop 1.6 million
The serenade of Hama’s creaking ancient wooden norias (water wheels) is famous throughout the Middle East, and makes this attractive, though conservative, town one of the country’s tourism hot spots. Hama also has terrific accommodation, which makes it the perfect base for visiting Crac des Chevaliers, Apamea and other sights in the area.
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INFORMATION
Internet Access
Happy Net ( 216 057; per hr S£50; 24hr) At the back of the Noria Hotel, off Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli, this place has good connections.
Space Net (Sharia Abu al-Feda; per hr S£60; 24hr) Free tea and fast connections.
Money
There are ATMs all over Hama, with at least three along Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli. Two branches of the Commercial Bank of Syria (Sharia ibn Rushd & Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli) will change cash and (sometimes) travellers cheques (S£25 commission).
Post & Telephone
The new post office ( 8am-2pm Sat-Thu) is on the north side of the river. From the clock tower, walk north and cross the bridge. Turn right at the first major road and continue walking until you see the post office on the left-hand side of the road, near the Syrian Telecom Office.
The phone office ( 8am-7pm Sat-Thu) is off Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli, at the side of the former post office building.
Tourist Information
Tourist office ( 511 033; www.syriatourism.org; Sharia Said al-A’as; 8am-8pm Sat-Thu) In a small building in the gardens just north of the river.
Visa Extensions
Passport office (Sharia Ziqar; 8am-2pm Sun-Thu) On the northern edge of town, near the new museum. It’s in a modern building with ‘Passport’ written in English above the main entrance.
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SIGHTS
Norias
Hama’s main attraction is the norias (water wheels up to 20m in diameter) that have graced the town for centuries. Because both the water wheels and the blocks on which they are mounted are wooden, the friction when they turn produces a mournful groaning. Sadly, when we were here, water levels were at a record low, the water wheels had stopped turning and the Orontes River had become a series of stagnant, mucky ponds.
There have been norias in Hama since at least the 4th century AD, but the wheels seen today were designed by the 13th-centuryAyyubids, who built around 30 of the things. Of these, 17 norias survive, although all have been reconditioned and/or rebuilt.
The most accessible norias are right in the middle of town, but the most impressive wheels lie about 1km upstream, and are collectively known as the Four Norias of Bechriyyat. In the opposite direction,