Middle East - Anthony Ham [413]
Cairo Hotel ( 222 280; cairohot@aloola.sy; Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli; mattress on the roof S£150, dm S£250, s/d S£550/700; ) The Cairo is also hugely popular with budget travellers and deservedly so. The rooms here are generally as good as those at the Riad and all come with private bathrooms, satellite TV and comfortable beds. Breakfast costs S£125 for travellers staying in dorm rooms or on the roof, free for others. There’s internet (S£75 per hour) at reception and staff are friendly and knowledgeable.
Sarah Hotel ( 515 941; fax 217 240; s/d S£850/1100) Though it only opened in 2000, this place in the city’s old quarter, off Sharia Abu al-Feda, isn’t wearing too well: the rooms are a little tatty and the staff aren’t very used to seeing Western travellers. Rooms are clean, quiet and light, with satellite TV. Breakfast costs S£150.
Midrange
New Basman Hotel ( 224 838; riadhotel@scs-net.org; Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli; s/d US$20/30; ) After a recent overhaul by the owners of the Riad Hotel, this once down-at-heel place shines with enormous rooms, good bathrooms and a good central location.
Hama Tower Hotel ( 226 864; fax 521 523; s/d US$30/35; ) The rooms here are nothing special (they’re fine, if a little tired), but the views from the north-facing 10th- and 11th-floor rooms are spectacular, looking out over the old town, the Al-Mamuriyya Noria and the citadel. If you get a south-facing room, it’s probably not worth it, but staff assured us that foreign tourists are always given priority with these rooms. The hotel is off Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli.
Noria Hotel ( 512 414; www.noria-hotel.com; older s/d US$30/40, new s/d/ste US$40/50/100; ) The older section of this two-star, 4th-floor hotel has spacious, clean and comfortable rooms, although beware the windowless ones, which are quieter but a tad claustrophobic. Rooms in the new section sparkle and are of a standard better than many four-star Syrian hotels – there are plans for the older rooms to undergo a similar overhaul. The stunning corner suite has a hydromassage bath, pleasing decor and views of the old town. Service is excellent and credit cards are accepted. Situated in the small streets between Sharia Shoukri al-Quwatli and the river.
Top End
Orient House Hotel ( 225 599; Sharia al-Jalaa; s/d/ste US$65/85/110; ) In a splendid, restored 18th-century building, with beautifully decorated ceilings, oriental lamps and a big, central, light-filled courtyard, this is Hama’s most atmospheric accommodation. There’s a new extension, so ask for one of the rooms in the Ottoman-era building. Rooms are well equipped with TV and fridge, and there’s a good restaurant on site. The only downside is the location, at least a 20-minute walk from the centre; take a taxi.
Apamee Cham Palace ( 525 335; www.chamhotels.com; s/d US$110/130 plus tax 11%; ) With a winning location just across the river from the old town, luxury rooms, tennis courts and a large swimming pool area, this five-star place is easy to recommend. Breakfast costs US$6 and credit cards are accepted.
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EATING
Broasted Fawwaz ( 223 884; meals S£140; 8am-late) This long-standing favourite, off Sharia al-Buhturi, is known for its delicious hot chickens and freshly fried potato crisps with garlic sauce.
Le Jardin ( 525 335; Sharia abi Nawas; meals S£400; 4pm-late) Overlooking the splendid An-Nuri Mosque, river and water wheels, and serving alcohol, this leafy, terrace café-restaurant is a wonderful place to while away a few hours puffing on a nargileh (S£150). Local families love it here, and on weekends fill their tables with plates of mezze and kebabs.
Four Norias (Sharia al-Buhturi; meals S£400; 9am-late) On the banks of the river beside the norias, around 500m east of the centre, this large open-air terrace restaurant is popular with families and gets lively on summer evenings. There’s a long list of mezze and kebabs, and costumed boys serving nargileh. No alcohol.
Aspasia Restaurant ( 522 288; www.aspasia-hama.com; meals S£500; noon-midnight) Hama’s best restaurant occupies