Middle East - Anthony Ham [415]
Continue around the wall and enter the inner fortress through the tower at the top of the access ramp into an open courtyard. The loggia, with its Gothic facade, on the western side of the yard, is the single most impressive structure in the castle, its delicate ceiling offering relief from the otherwise formidable aesthetic elsewhere.
Opposite the loggia is a chapel that was converted to a mosque after the Muslim conquest (the minbar, or pulpit, still remains). The staircase that obstructs the main door is a later addition and leads to the upper floors of the fortress. From here, you can climb to the round tower in the southwest corner, which is known as the Warden’s Tower – on a clear day there are magnificent views from the roof.
After visiting the castle, drive or walk north from the entrance and follow the paved road that circles the castle perimeter and then climbs up to Restaurant al-Qalaa (below), from where you’ll have the iconic, panoramic views of the castle that drew you here in the first place. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the castle entrance.
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SLEEPING & EATING
Crac des Chevaliers is just an hour or so from Tartus, Homs or even Hama, so most people visit on a day trip. Then again, a view of the Crac when you wake up is one the most romantic hotel views in Syria and possible if you stay at the Beibars Hotel.
Beibars Hotel ( /fax 734 1201; akrambibars@mail.sy; Sharia Okbah Ben Nafee; s/d with view US$25/35, with view from balcony US$20/25; ) This comfortable hotel has stunning, sweeping views of the castle just across the valley. All rooms have views, although in the cheaper rooms you need to go onto the balcony to see the castle; those on the top floor (reception level) are the best. The rooms are clean, light and extremely good for the price.
The hotel is on the first hill west of the castle, about a 20- to 25-minute walk from the main entrance. Breakfast is included in the price but there’s no restaurant.
La Table Ronde ( 740 280; meals around S£250) About 150m southwest of the castle, this run-down, mediocre place serves meals and it’s here that you’ll be directed if staying at Beibars Hotel, which has the same owners.
Restaurant al-Qalaa ( 734 1435, 0933 874 692; set menu S£300-350; 8.30am-10pm Apr-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Mar) Boasting stunning views of the castle and surrounding valleys, Restaurant al-Qalaa is the best eatery around the Crac. Look for the lone, white, two-storey building immediately west of the castle, on the next hilltop; the sign outside reads ‘Alklaa Restaurant’. The all-you-can-eat menu comprises a wide range of mezze as well as grilled chicken or meat. In winter, ring ahead so that the friendly owner-chef can cater lunch or dinner for you. Alcohol is served.
Restaurant Les Chevaliers ( 740 411; meals S£300-350), directly opposite the main castle entrance, serves up OK food with some views through the foliage of the modern village of Hosn and surrounding valleys (but not the castle).
The Princess Tower Restaurant (meals S£300), in the castle’s northwestern corner, serves mezze, grills and drinks. The setting is better than the food, although the latter is better than it used to be after a change of management.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Crac des Chevaliers lies approximately 12km north of the Homs–Tartus highway. The castle is on the crest of the hill, perched above the village of Hosn.
Coming from Damascus or Hama, it’s necessary to change buses in Homs. Buses from Homs to Crac des Chevaliers (S£40, 1½ hours) leave every hour on the hour; the last bus returning to Homs departs from the castle at 5.30pm in summer or 2.30pm in winter. Most hotels in Hama run organised tours to the castle (Click here); if you’re just going to Crac des Chevaliers and back to Hama, expect to pay S£1300 to S£1500 per car.
From Tartus, catch a Homs microbus. You’ll