Middle East - Anthony Ham [417]
It prospered greatly until an earthquake in 1822 killed over 60% of the inhabitants and wrecked many buildings, including the citadel. The flood of cheap goods from Europe in the wake of the Industrial Revolution, and the increasing use of alternative trading routes, slowly killed off a lot of Aleppo’s trade and manufacturing industry.
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ORIENTATION
There are three main areas of Aleppo where you’ll spend most of your time, and all are within a short walk of each other. Most of Aleppo’s cheap hotels are clustered in the new city, a compact zone centred on Sharias al-Quwatli and al-Baron; restaurants, the National Museum and moneychangers are also here.
To the southeast are the citadel and the Old City with its souqs and two hotels, while northeast of the centre are the main Christian quarters including the charming cobbled Al-Jdeida district, where you’ll find the best restaurants and numerous midrange hotels.
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INFORMATION
Emergency
Ambulance ( 110)
Fire department ( 113)
Police ( 362 4300)
Internet Access
Internet cafés are annoyingly thin on the ground. Dar Halabia is one of the few hotels with wireless access, but expect that to change.
3D Net (Map; per hr S£100; 10am-10pm) A tiny place with patchy connections in the lane in front of the Mandaloun Hotel.
Adam Internet (Map; Sharia Zaki al-Arsuzi; 50min S£50; 24hr) Just around the corner from the Baron Hotel, this is one of few places offering ADSL connections; rates are cheaper the longer you’re there.
Concord Internet Cafe (Map; 270 060; Sharia al-Quwatli; per hr S£100; 9.30am-3am) OK connections that drop out more often than we’d like.
Money
CBS Exchange al-Kattab (Map; 8am-7pm), outside the tourist office, changes money and has an ATM.
Otherwise, try one of the two branches of the Commercial Bank of Syria (Map; Sharia Yousef al-Azmeh), that are north of Sharia al-Quwatli; they may change travellers cheques with a S£50 commission but don’t count on it.
ATMs are dotted around town, but there are few in the old town.
Post & Telephone
Main post & telephone office (Map; 362 4010; 8am-5pm) In the enormous building on the far side of Saahat Saad Allah al-Jabri. For international calls, use the card phones dotted around town including in front of the post office and the National Museum.
Tourist Information
Tourist office (Map; 212 1228; www.syriatourism.org; Sharia al-Baron; 8.30am-7pm Sat-Thu) In the gardens opposite the National Museum, it occasionally stocks maps and is generally more willing than especially useful.
Visa Extensions
Immigration office (Map; 225 5330; 8am-1.30pm Sat-Thu) In the square near the Chabha Cham Palace Hotel, west of the Old City. A taxi should cost no more than S£50.
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SIGHTS
Old City
Aleppo’s souq, which runs for 1.5km from the 13th-century Bab Antakya (Map) in the west to the citadel in the east, makes the Old City one of the Middle East’s main attractions. This partially covered network of bustling passageways extends over several hectares, and once under the vaulted stone ceiling you’re swallowed up into another world, transported back in time to the medieval bazaars of our imaginings with clamour, commerce and smells that you’ll never forget. Parts of these dimly lit and atmospheric markets date to the 13th century, but the bulk of the area is an Ottoman-era creation. The best way to explore is to simply lose yourself in the labyrinth.
At one time walled and entered only by one of eight gates, the Old City has long since burst its seams and now has few definable boundaries. Exploring its seemingly infinite number of alleys and cul-de-sacs could occupy the better part of a week, depending on how inquisitive you are. We recommend visiting at least twice: once on a busy weekday to experience the all-out, five-senses assault of the souq, and a