Middle East - Anthony Ham [428]
Midrange & Top End
Hotel al-Nour ( 243 980; fax 245 340; Sharia 14 Ramadan; s/d US$30/35; ) A two-star place overlooking the motorway, Hotel al-Nour has beds resembling concrete slabs; the rooms themselves are pretty good and come with satellite TV and some have balconies – those with carpet on the upper floors have a worn look to them. Ask for a room at the rear. It’s all a touch overpriced, but only a touch.
Al-Cazino Hotel ( /fax 461 140/142; Al-Corniche; s/d from US$40/50; ) In an imposing and well-located French Mandate–era building, this hotel has large, comfortable rooms with satellite TV, although some are starting to show their age. The hotel is home to the city’s most popular reception venue, so it can be noisy. Summer rates are US$10 more expensive. If you’re choosing between here and the Riviera, we’d stay here.
Hotel Riviera ( 211 806; fax 218 287; Sharia 14 Ramadan; s/d from US$60/69 plus tax 11%; ) Once the best hotel in Lattakia, it was for years easy to forgive its slightly out-of-the-action location alongside a six-lane highway. The rooms are still reasonable with tiled floors, satellite TV, plenty of space and generally good bathrooms, and there’s a decent restaurant, which is why many tour groups stay here. But leaky air-conditioners, peeling walls and a generally careworn air are not things you expect to find in this price range. Breakfast is included in the price.
Côte d’Azur de Cham Resort ( 428 700; www.chamhotels.com; Shaati al-Azraq; d with garden/sea view US$140/180; ) The more attractive of Lattakia’s two five-stars, this resort comes with a surprisingly sexy swathe of cream-sand beach complete with curvy palm trees. The hotel is ornate, with lots of marble and brass, rooms are spacious and plush, and the facilities are excellent including cafés and restaurants, an ATM, an internet café, a liquor store etc. Out-of-season rates (October to April) can be significantly cheaper. Major credit cards are accepted.
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EATING
For something a cut above the rest, Sharia al-Mutanabi (known locally as the ‘American quarter’ because an American school used to be based here, but it could also be because of the proliferation of Western-style eateries) is a fascinating insight into modern Syria with loads of cool restaurants. We suggest just wandering along this street and you’re sure to find something that appeals.
Express Cafe ( 456 200; 22 Sharia al-Mutanabi; meals S£200; 9am-midnight; ) An American diner in the Hard Rock Café style, this bright and noisy place offers burgers, steaks, pizza and hot and cold sandwiches. It also does great milkshakes, and there’s a bar downstairs.
Stop 5 ( 477 919; 27 Sharia al-Mutanabi; meals around S£300; 11am-midnight; ) Resembles a New York bar, with shelves of spirits, posters advertising happy hours and wood-panelled walls. The food is good, ranging across pizzas, burgers and steaks, and management doesn’t mind if you sit for a while nursing a drink and a snack.
Last Station ( 468 871; 20 Sharia al-Mutanabi; meals around S£300; 11am-11pm) Popular with local families, this old-fashioned place does tasty food at very reasonable prices. Expect everything from Syrian mezze to pizza. Alcohol is served.
Spiros ( 478 238; Al-Corniche; meals around S£350; noon-midnight) Just back from the docks, Spiros is unpretentious but probably Lattakia’s best place for fish, with a small range of mezze, meat mains and calamari on the menu. But here you’ll be invited into the kitchen to choose from the day’s fish catch. Not surprisingly, it’s hugely popular with locals.
Allegro ( 458 000; Sharia al-Mutanabi; meals S£350; 11am-midnight) Lattakia’s hippest restaurant is in a sleek contemporary space, with lots of chocolate wood and concealed lighting, that wouldn’t be out of place in Beirut or even Madrid. It’s a great spot for lunch, when it buzzes with noisy groups of locals enjoying the delicious food – a mix of Asian, Mexican,