Middle East - Anthony Ham [437]
051 / pop 285,000
Deir ez-Zur (‘Deir’ to the locals) is a busy market town by the Euphrates that, for travellers, serves as a gateway to the ancient riverbank sites of Dura Europos and Mari. On weekdays, the sometimes shady streets of Deir are filled with colourfully dressed farmers from the surrounding countryside, in town to buy and sell produce at the small but thriving souq off the main square.
The character of the town is heavily influenced by its proximity, both geographical and cultural, to Iraq. Although there really isn’t that much to see in town, it has a pleasant riverside setting and an occasional fragrance of jasmine. They’re not as accustomed to seeing tourists here as elsewhere in Syria, and solo women travellers may not always feel comfortable.
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RIVER OF PARADISE: THE EUPHRATES
The significance of the Euphrates (a combination of Greek words that translates to ‘gentle current’) predates biblical times, but it’s the mention of the river, known as ‘Perath’ in Hebrew and ‘Al-Furat’ in Arabic, in both the Book of Revelation and by the Prophet Mohammed that makes it most intriguing.
The river starts in northeast Turkey only 80km from its partner, the Tigris, and makes its way through Turkey, then Syria, meeting up with the Tigris in southern Iraq before heading into the Persian Gulf. The total length is about 2800 kilometres, and it’s one of the four rivers that flow from the Garden of Eden, according to the Bible. Along with the Tigris, its water supply was important in the development of Mesopotamia. (The name Mesopotamia is Greek for ‘between rivers’, referring to the Euphrates and the Tigris.)
While the Euphrates languidly flows through Syria, political tension flows through the countries that it services. Turkey, Syria and Iraq all have a vested interest in the Euphrates for irrigation and the creation of hydroelectric power. The Southeast Anatolia Project in Turkey is the biggest development project ever in the country and involves the construction of 22 dams and 19 power plants, most of which are now completed, and which has prompted concern downriver. Syria has created the Tabaqah Dam on Lake Assad, which has doubled the amount of irrigated land in Syria. The consequences of a severe drought would severely affect the livelihood of millions of people across Turkey, Syria and Iraq. However, would it be a catastrophe of biblical proportions? The Book of Revelation in the New Testament of the Bible warns that when the river Euphrates runs dry, Armageddon follows. The Prophet Mohammed warned that the river will one day dry up, revealing unknown treasures that will cause widespread war. See it while you can.
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Orientation
The centre of town is the main square, Saahat 8 Azar, a scruffy, dusty place with the busy souq on its east side. The main north–south road, which runs from the canal through to the square, is bisected by the main east–west axis, which also runs through the square and is called Sharia Khaled ibn al-Walid to the east and Sharia Ali ibn Abi Taleb to the west. The body of water flowing just north of the square is not the Euphrates but a canal. The river is a further 500m north.
Information
Commercial Bank of Syria (Sharia Ali ibn Abi Taleb; 8am-12.30pm Sat-Thu) About a 10-minute walk west of the main square; it has an ATM.
Immigration Office (Sharia ar-Rashid; 8am-1.30pm Sat-Thu) A good place to extend your visa; the process takes only about half an hour. You need two photos and it costs S£25. To find the office, walk south from the telephone office, then diagonally across the square, turning right onto Sharia ar-Rashid; it’s the low concrete building on your right.
Post Office (Sharia 8 Azar; 8am-8pm Sat-Thu, to 1pm Fri) Halfway between the main square and the minibus station.
Sights
MUSEUM
Museums elsewhere in Syria could take a lesson from Deir ez-Zur’s small museum (Saahat ar-Rais, Sharia Ali ibn Abi Taleb; adult/student S£150/10; 8am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar, closed Tue). The pieces in the collection may not be as valuable or as striking as