Middle East - Anthony Ham [446]
Visas at the Border
If there’s no Syrian representation in your country, you can obtain a visa on arrival at borders, airports or ports. Otherwise you MUST secure a visa in advance. Such is the official (and usually adhered to) position of the Syrian authorities. Even so, we continue to hear reports of travellers from countries with a Syrian embassy back home convincing immigration officials at land borders to waive the official rules and grant a visa. We don’t recommend that you count on this, but if circumstances prevented you from getting a Syrian visa back home, you may want to try your luck, on the understanding, of course, that the chances of success are small and depend on the uncharacteristic goodwill of the Syrian authorities.
Visa Extensions
In one of the most welcome changes for travellers in Syria in recent years, you’re no longer required to seek a visa extension if you wish to stay in the country longer than 15 days; at the time of writing, this requirement was still being stamped on visas by Syrian embassies around the world even though the requirement no longer applies. The rule change means that you must instead seek a visa extension after 30 days, which takes the need for extensions beyond the concern of most travellers.
If you’re staying in Syria for more than 30 days you’ll have to visit an immigration office, which you’ll find in all main cities. Unless you ask for a longer extension, the usual length of the extension is a further 15 days, although up to one-and-a-half months is routinely granted upon request. They are usually only granted on the 29th or 30th day of your stay, so if you apply earlier expect to be knocked back. The specifics vary from place to place but there are always a couple of forms to complete and you need two to six passport photos. The cost is never more than S£50. For further details see the individual city sections.
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WOMEN TRAVELLERS
Syria is an extraordinarily safe country in which to travel, and foreign women are generally treated with courtesy and respect; this is far from the most conservative country in the region. Even so, there will still always be a certain amount of unwanted predatory male attention, particularly in Palmyra and in the area around Sharia Baron in Aleppo. To minimise the chance of any unpleasant encounters, follow the advice given on clothing and behaviour on Click here and try to sit next to women on public transport. Clothing guidelines are particularly important in rural areas, which tend to be more conservative. But it’s far from a universal picture: in Lattakia and much of Damascus, many local women dress much as they do in the West, while Hama and Aleppo are much more conservative.
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TRAVEL BETWEEN SYRIA & LEBANON
In mid-2008 Syria and Lebanon began a period of unprecedented rapprochement, and it’s one that could have important implications for those travelling between the two countries. Among the changes announced in mid-2008 were promises to open a Syrian embassy in Beirut and a Lebanese embassy in Damascus. Prior to the announcement, such embassies had not existed since independence, partly because relations have long been strained and in part because Syria considered Lebanon to be an extension of Syrian territory. Travellers report that it is becoming easier to obtain a Syrian visa at the Lebanese border, but this is a hit-and-miss affair, and could end up frustrating if you’re denied entry. It’s better to arrange your Syrian or Lebanese visa in advance. However, keep your ear to the ground by speaking to travellers and monitoring the Thorn Tree section of Lonely Planet’s website (www.lonelyplanet.com) to find out if visas can be obtained at the border, and ask the staff at your friendly local Syrian or Lebanese