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here) and change to a bus heading for Şanlıurfa. Alternatively you can aim for Gaziantep (Click here), via İslahiye or Kilis; from Gaziantep there are departures on to Şanlıurfa. Before doing so, remember one very important point: you can pick up your Turkish visa (Click here) at the border, but if you’re planning to return to Syria, don’t even think of setting out without a multiple-entry Syrian visa (Click here) in your passport. Şanlıurfa has many calling cards, from the cave where Abraham is said to have been born to its evocative bazaar and kale (fortress). To return to Syria, catch a minibus to Harran (Click here), one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, then on to the Syrian border post at Akçakale. On the Syrian side of the border, service taxis run when full to Aleppo.

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The term ‘microbus’ is blurred, but in general refers to the little white vans (mostly Japanese) with a sliding door. These are used principally to connect the major cities and towns with surrounding small towns and villages. They are replacing the lumbering old minibuses with which they compete, and are faster and slightly more expensive. They follow set routes but along that route passengers can be picked up or set down anywhere. The fare is the same whatever distance you travel.

PULLMAN BUS

Dozens of private bus companies operate excellent services between the major cities. Routes are few and operators are in fierce competition for passengers. Every city bus station (known locally as karajats, or garages) has a row of prefab huts serving as booking offices for the various companies. There’s no central information source for departure times or prices, so it’s a case of walking around and finding out which company has the next bus to your destination, although chances are that the touts will find you before you get too far.

Fares vary little and buses are pretty much the same (large, newish, air-con). Seats are assigned at booking. A rigid no-smoking rule is imposed on most buses (although some drivers seem to be exempt), and during the journey a steward will distribute cups of water. A few companies do have the edge when it comes to the cleanliness and roadworthiness of their vehicles; particularly recommended are Al-Kadmous (sometimes signed ‘KT’) and Al-Ahliah.

Car & Motorcycle

You’ll need an International Driving Permit (IDP) if you decide to drive in Syria. Traffic runs on the right-hand side of the road. The speed limit is 60km/h in built-up areas, 70km/h on the open road and 110km/h on major highways. The roads are generally quite reasonable, but when heading off into the backblocks you’ll find that most signposting is in Arabic only.

Europcar ( 011-212 0624/5; www.europcar.com) has been joined by Hertz ( 011-221 6615; www.hertz.com) and a number of other international firms, including a gaggle of sometimes dodgy local companies. With the latter, keep your eye on insurance arrangements, which can be quite lackadaisical. Expect to pay at least US$50/325 per day/week for a small car including all insurance and unlimited mileage. The local companies can be cheaper. Most of the firms have desks at the airport, and offices on or around the Cham Palace Hotel on Sharia Maysaloun in central Damascus. You’ll need an IDP and a sizeable cash or credit-card deposit; the minimum hire is usually three days.

Local Transport

Service taxis (shared taxis; ser-vees) only operate on the major routes and can cost twice the microbus fare – sometimes more.

Tours

Tours of some of the country’s highlights can be organised in Damascus (Click here), Hama (Click here) and Aleppo (Click here), among other places.

Train

The once-neglected Syrian railway system is improving all the time due to recent government investment, including the purchase of new French-made locomotives. The main line connects Damascus, Aleppo, Deir ez-Zur, Hassake and Qamishle. A secondary line runs from Aleppo to Lattakia, along the coast to Tartus and again inland to Homs and Damascus.

Departures are often in the middle of the night, meaning that