Middle East - Anthony Ham [456]
When the Turkish Republic was proclaimed in 1923, Ankara became the new capital. Nevertheless, İstanbul remains the centre for business, finance, journalism and the arts.
Return to beginning of chapter
ORIENTATION
The Bosphorus strait, between the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara, divides Europe from Asia. On its western shore, European İstanbul is further divided by the Golden Horn (Haliç) into Old İstanbul in the south and Beyoğlu in the north.
Sultanahmet is the heart of Old İstanbul and boasts many of the city’s famous sites. The adjoining area, with hotels to suit all budgets, is called Cankurtaran (jan-kur-tar-an), although if you say ‘Sultanahmet’ most people will understand where you mean.
Beyoğlu, on the northern side of the Golden Horn, was once the ‘new’, or ‘European’, city. The Tünel funicular railway runs uphill from Karaköy to the southern end of Beyoğlu’s pedestrianised main street, İstiklal Caddesi. A tram runs from there to Taksim Sq, at the north end of the street, and the heart of ‘modern’ İstanbul; it’s home to many luxury hotels and airline offices.
The International İstanbul Bus Station is in Esenler, about 10km northwest of Sultanahmet. North of Sultanahmet, on the Golden Horn, is Sirkeci Railway Station, terminus for European train services. Across the Bosphorus, Haydarpaşa station is the terminus for trains to Anatolia, Syria and Iran. For more information on getting around and into İstanbul, Click here.
Return to beginning of chapter
INFORMATION
Emergency
Police 155
Tourist police Map; 0212-527 4503; Yerebatan Caddesi 6, Sultanahmet) Located across the street from the Basilica Cistern.
Internet Access
Most hotels and hostels have wi-fi access and a computer terminal with free internet access. There are also internet cafés throughout İstanbul, including:
Café Turka Internet Café Map; 2nd fl, Divan Yolu Caddesi 22, Sultanahmet; per hr TL2.50; 9am-midnight)
Robin Hood Internet Café Map; 4th fl, Yeni Çarşı Caddesi 8, Galatasaray; per hr TL2; 9am-11.30pm)
Medical Services
Alman Hastanesi (German Hospital; Map; 0212-293 2150; Sıraselviler Caddesi 119, Taksim; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Sat)
Amerikan Hastanesi (American Hospital; Map; 0212-444 3777; Güzelbahçe Sokak 20, Nişantaşı; 24hr emergency department)
Money
Banks with ATMs are widespread, including in Sultanahmet’s Aya Sofya Meydanı (Map) and all along İstiklal Caddesi in Beyoğlu. The exchange rates offered at the airport are usually as good as those offered in town.
Post
İstanbul’s central post office (Map) is a few blocks southwest of Sirkeci Railway Station. In Sultanahmet there’s a PTT booth on Aya Sofya Meydanı (Map) and a PTT branch in the basement of the law courts (Map); in Beyoğlu there are branches on İstiklal Caddesi (Map) and near the Galata Bridge (Map). There’s also a PTT in the southwestern corner of the Grand Bazaar (Map).
Tourist Information
Atatürk International Airport (IST; Atatürk Hava Limanı; off Map; 0212-465 5555; www.ataturkairport.com; 24hr) Booth in international arrivals area.
Elmadağ Map; 0212-233 0592; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat) In the arcade in front of the İstanbul Hilton Hotel, just off Cumhuriyet Caddesi; about a 10-minute walk north of Taksim Sq.
Sultanahmet Map; 0212-518 8754; 9am-5pm) At the northeast end of the Hippodrome.
Return to beginning of chapter
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Some İstanbullus drive like rally drivers; as a pedestrian, give way to vehicles in all situations. Bag-snatching is a slight problem, especially on Galipdede Sokak in Tünel and İstiklal Caddesi’s side streets. Most importantly, avoid so-called ‘friends’ who approach you and offer to buy you a drink; a scam is usually involved.
Return to beginning of chapter
SIGHTS
Old İstanbul
TOPKAPı PALACE
Possibly the most iconic monument in İstanbul, opulent