Middle East - Anthony Ham [469]
The ticket booth for the ruins of Troy ( 283 0536; admission per person/car TL10/3; 8.30am-7pm May–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–Apr) is 500m before the site. The site is rather confusing for nonexpert eyes (guides are available), but the most conspicuous features, apart from the reconstruction of the Trojan Horse, include the walls from various periods; the Graeco-Roman Temple of Athena, of which traces of the altar remain; the Roman Odeon, where concerts were held; the Bouleuterion (Council Chamber), built around Homer’s time (c 800 BC).
From Çanakkale, dolmuşes to Troy (TL2, 35 minutes, 30km) leave every hour on the half hour from 9.30am to 5.30pm from a station under the bridge over the Sarı, and drop you by the ticket booth. Dolmuşes run back to Çanakkale on the hour, until 5pm in high season and 3pm in low season.
The travel agencies offering tours to the Gallipoli battlefields (Click here) also offer tours to Troy (around €25 per person).
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BEHRAMKALE & ASSOS
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Behramkale, southwest of Ayvalık, is an old hilltop Greek village spread out around the ruins of a 6th-century temple. The Ionic Temple of Athena (admission TL5; 8am-dusk) has spectacular views of Lesvos and the dazzling Aegean – well worth the admission fee. Beside the entrance to the ruins, the 14th-century Hüdavendigar Camii is a simple early Ottoman mosque.
Just before the entrance to the village, a road winds 2km down to Assos harbour. It’s a cluster of half-a-dozen old stone houses-turned-hotels overlooking a picture-perfect harbour, and is the ideal place to unwind over a cup of tea.
Behramkale and Assos make a fine combination, but are no longer sleeping beauties and get overcrowded. Over summer weekends and public holidays, İstanbullus and İzmirlis pour in by the bus load.
Sleeping
You can either stay in Behramkale village itself or in the hotels around Assos harbour.
BEHRAMKALE
Dolunay Pansiyon ( 721 7172; s/d TL25/50) In the centre of the village by the dolmuş stop, the homely Dolunay has six spotless, simple rooms set around a courtyard.
Timur Pansiyon ( /fax 721 7449; timurpansiyon@yahoo.com; s/d TL35/60; Apr–mid-Sep) Remote, rustic and not unlike a shepherd’s croft, the 200-year-old Timur’s characterful rooms may prove too basic for some, but the setting above the village and beside the temple is fabulous.
Old Bridge House ( 721 7426; www.assos.de/obh; campsites TL10, dm TL20, d low/high season TL60/100; Mar-Nov; ) Near the Ottoman bridge at the entrance to town, this long-time travellers’ favourite offers large double rooms, a six-bed dorm and garden cabins.
Eris Pansiyon ( 721 7080; erispansiyon.com; Behramkale Köyü 6; s/d TL90/130; Apr-Nov) Set in a stone house with gardens at the far end of the village, this has ordinary (for the price) but peaceful rooms. Afternoon tea is served on a terrace with views over the hills.
ASSOS
If you prefer to stay in the pricey hotels by Assos harbour, note that in high season virtually all of them insist on yarım pansiyon (half board).
Çakır Pansiyon ( 721 7048; www.assoscakirpansiyon.com; campsite per person TL8, s/d TL40/60, half board TL60/80; ) Around 100m east of the town entrance, this seafront pansiyon has simple but clean bungalows and a small camping site. Breakfast is served on a floating platform, dinner in a lantern-lit restaurant.
Yıldız Saray Hotel ( 721 7025; www.yildizsaray-hotels.com; r TL180; ) Though rooms are small, they’re traditionally furnished, attractive and good value, with views across the harbour and three with access to a small terrace. The brassiere-style restaurant has a good reputation.
Hotel Behram ( 721 7044; www.behram-hotel.com; s/d half board TL120/180; ) On the front, by the town entrance, Behram has smallish rooms, although they are well-equipped and enlivened by bright decor.
Biber Evi ( 721 7410; www.biberevi.com; s/d TL150/200, half board TL170/240; ) A real delight, this old stone house boasts a peaceful garden, a small terrace with lovely views and a gourmet restaurant. Rooms are Ottoman-rustic