Middle East - Anthony Ham [474]
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SELÇUK
0232 / pop 27,280
Selçuk boasts one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, an excellent museum, a fine basilica and mosque, a stork nest–studded aqueduct and, right on the town’s doorstep, Ephesus. However, compared to the vast tourism factory of nearby Kuşadası, Selçuk’s tourism industry is a small scale, workshop-sized affair.
Orientation & Information
Selçuk otogar lies just east of the İzmir–Aydın road (Atatürk Caddesi), with the town centre and some pensions immediately north of it. Pedestrianised shopping streets Namık Kemal, Cengiz Topel and Siegburg Caddesis run east from the main road to the train station.
On the western side of the main road a park spreads out in front of one wing of the Ephesus Museum. Many pensions can be found in the quiet, hilly streets between the museum and Ayasuluk Hill, northwest of the centre.
The tourist office ( 892 6945; www.selcuk.gov.tr; Agora Caddesi 35; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri winter, daily in summer) is opposite the museum.
It’s a 30- to 45-minute walk from the tourist office in Selçuk to the main Ephesus admission gate. Many pensions in Selçuk offer free lifts there.
Sights
Selçuk is not only close to Ephesus, it’s also blessed with superb monuments scattered around the centre. Don’t miss the conspicuous Basilica of St John (St Jean Caddesi; admission TL2; 8am-5pm, to 7pm May-Sep), atop Ayasuluk Hill. It was built in the 6th century on the site where it was believed St John the Evangelist had been buried. The less-impressive Temple of Artemis (admission free; 8am-5pm, to 7pm May-Sep), between Ephesus and Selçuk, was once one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. In its prime, it was larger than the Parthenon at Athens. Unfortunately, little more than one pillar now remains.
The Ephesus Museum ( 892 6010; Uğur Mumcu Sevgi Yolu Caddesi; admission €2.50; 8am-5pm, to 7pm May-Sep) houses a striking collection of artefacts, including the effigy of Priapus, the Phallic God, as seen on every postcard from İstanbul to Antakya.
Sleeping
Garden Motel & Camping ( 892 6165; info@galleriaselciukidi.com; Kale Altı 5; per person/tent/car/campervan TL10/5/5/10, tent hire TL12; ) Located 200m north of the mosque, this grassy camping ground is large and well designed, with facilities including a good restaurant and children’s amusements.
Atilla’s Getaway ( 892 3847; www.atillasgetaway.com; dm/r €8/16, bungalow without bathroom €8; ) An attractive camping and bungalow complex 2.5km south of Selçuk. Run by a welcoming Turkish-Australian, it’s packed with facilities and has a fun atmosphere.
Australia & New Zealand Guest house ( 892 6050; www.anzguesthouse.com; 1064 Sokak 12; dm/d TL12.5/45, d without bathroom TL30; ) Despite the rules posted in the rooms, this is a welcoming place with sofas and comfortable clutter in its courtyard, and a great covered roof terrace. Bikes are free or you can hire a motor scooter.
Kiwi Pension (Alison’s Place; 892 4892; www.kiwipension.com; 1038 Sokak 26; dm/s/d TL12/25/40, s/d without bathroom TL20/32; ) Presided over by the energetic Alison, the Kiwi receives glowing reports. Rooms are simple but spotless and bright, and there’s a private pool set 1km away in a mandarin orchard.
Artemis Hotel ( 892 6191; www.artemisguesthouse.net; 1012 Sokak 2; s/d €25/40; ) Spruced up by a renovation, the Artemis, near the train station, has large, new beds, fresh linen and decent bathrooms.
Tuncay Pension ( 892 6260; www.tuncaypension.com.tr; 2019 Sokak 1; d with/without air-con €50/35; ) It’s a touch expensive for a pension, but a good, friendly choice nonetheless. There’s a cool courtyard with a fountain where generous breakfasts are served.
Naz Han ( 892 8731; nazhanhotel@gmail.com; 1044 Sokak 2; r €50-70; ) Living up to its name, which means ‘coy’, the Naz Han hides behind high walls. This 100-year-old Greek house has five simple but comfortable rooms arranged around a courtyard.
Eating
Okumuşlar Pide Salonu