Middle East - Anthony Ham [489]
Don’t miss the excellent Suna & İnan Kıraç Kaleiçi Museum (Kocatepe Sokak 25; admission €0.85; 9am-noon & 1-6pm Thu-Tue), in the heart of Kaleiçi. It houses a fine collection of Turkish ceramics, together with rooms set up to show important events in Ottoman family life.
Need some hush and a cool place to rest your sightseeing-abused feet? Nothing beats Karaalioğlu Parkı, a large, attractive and flower-filled park that’s good for a stroll. Alternatively, do some yoga at the ambitious Association for the Unity of Mankind ( 244 5807; Hesapçı Sokak 7).
Excursion yachts tie up in the Roman Harbour in Kaleiçi, offering boat trips that visit the Gulf of Antalya islands and some beaches for a swim (TL20 to TL80).
Sleeping
There are pensions aplenty in Kaleiçi and most are housed in renovated historic buildings.
White Garden Pansiyon ( 248 9115; www.xhost.co.uk/whitegarden; Hesapçı Geçidi 9; s/d TL30/40; ) The White Garden combines tidiness, discretion and class beyond its price, not to mention impeccable service from Metin and co. The building and courtyard have been begulingly restored.
Hotel Blue Sea Garden ( 248 8213; www.blueseagarden.com; Hesapçı Sokak 65; s/d with half board TL40/60; ) The two pluses here are the extra large swimming pool area and the go-getting management team. The rooms are nothing special (the elevated ones are more peaceful) but the restaurant prepares excellent meals.
Kaleiçi Lodge ( 243 2270; www.kaleicilodge.com; Hesapçı Sokak 37; s/d TL50/80; ) This stylish, small hotel is sparklingly new and very affordable. The stark white lobby and hallways lead to red-draped, sharp-lined rooms.
La Paloma Pansion ( 244 8497; www.lapalomapansion.com; Tabakhane Sokak 3; s/d TL80/100; ) Housed in an Ottoman building, La Paloma has surprisingly large rooms, some with Jacuzzi. The best face inwards to the figure eight–shaped swimming pool.
Tuvana ( 247 6015; www.tuvanahotel.com; Karanlýk Sokak 7; s/d TL100/150; ) This hidden, once-royal compound of Ottoman houses has been converted into a fine inner–old city inn. Rooms are suitably plush, with kilims, linen and light fittings emitting soft oranges and yellows.
Mediterra Art Hotel ( 244 8624; www.mediterraart.com; Zafer Sokak 5; d/ste TL160/200; ) The sign of things to come in Antalya, perhaps, is this brand new, upscale masterpiece of wood and stone, offering sanctuary by a cutting-edge pool, and a marvellous winter dining room. The small though modestly luxurious rooms have LCD TVs.
Hotel Alp Paşa ( 247 5676; www.alppaşa.com; Hesapçı Sokak 30-32; s/d €65/90, with Jacuzzi €70/100; ) The most effectively signposted hotel in the Kaleiçi labyrinth has 60 individually designed rooms that are fitted with tasteful Ottoman detail. The outdoor courtyard displays Roman columns and other artefacts unearthed during the hotel’s construction. There’s an onsite hamam and an atmospheric stone-walled restaurant.
Eating & Drinking
A nearly endless assortment of cafés and eateries are tucked in and around the harbour area; those perched over the bay command the highest prices. For cheap eating, cross Atatürk Caddesi and poke around deep in the commercial district.
Can Can Pide Yemek Salonu ( 243 2548; Hasim Iscan Mahallesi, Arik Caddesi 4a; Adana durum TL6; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat) Looking for something cheap and cheerful? The Can Can most certainly can, offering fantastically prepared çorba (soup), pide and Adana durum. It’s elbow room only, so nudge right in.
Güneyliler ( 241 1117; Elmali Mahallesi 4 No 12; meals TL12) With its spare, cafeteria-style interior, this very reasonably priced locals-only joint isn’t much to look at. But the wood-fired lahmacun and grilled kebaps are served with so many complimentary extras, you’ll likely return again and again.
Hasanağa Restaurant ( 242 8105; Mescit Sokak 15; meals TL10-20) Expect to find the garden here absolutely packed on Friday and Saturday nights, when traditional Turkish musicians and folk dancers entertain. Entr