Middle East - Anthony Ham [500]
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AVANOS
0384 / pop 11,800
Avanos is famous for pottery, made with red clay from the Kızılırmak (Red River), which runs through its centre, and white clay from the mountains. Its old town is rundown and its riverside setting does not match the other Cappadocian centres. However, it boasts some superb views of Zelve and, when the pottery-purchasing tour groups have moved on, it’s an appealingly mellow country town.
Sleeping & Eating
Ada Camping ( 511 2429; www.adacampingavanos.com; Jan Zakari Caddesi 20; campsites per person TL10 incl electricity; ) Take the Nevşehir road and bear right to reach this large, family-run camping ground that’s in a superb setting near the river.
Kirkit Pension ( 511 3148; www.kirkit.com; Atatürk Caddesi; s/d/tr €30/40/55; ) Set in converted old stone houses, this long-running pension is known throughout Cappadocia for its congenial, laid-back atmosphere. The simple rooms are decorated with kilims, historical photographs of the region and Uzbek bedspreads.
Sofa Hotel ( 511 5186; www.sofa-hotel.com; Orta Mahallesi Baklacı Sokak 13; s/d TL60/100; ) Lots of Cappadocian cave establishments have their idiosyncrasies, but this hotel is downright bonkers. Staircases, bridges and terraces lead you up the hill, past eyes suddenly staring out from a mosaic fragment or a pottery face, to 33 rooms crammed with knick-knacks.
Sanço-Panço Restaurant ( 511 4184; Çarşi Sokak; mains TL6-7) This basic but welcoming eatery on the main square is a great people-watching spot. Given Avanos’ pottery trade, it’s hardly surprising that the specialty is güveç (beef stew baked in a clay pot).
Dayının Yeri ( 511 6840; Atatürk Caddesi 23; mains TL10) This shiny, modern ocakbaşıs (grill restaurant) is one of Cappadocia’s best, and is an essential stop on any visit to Avanos. The kebaps and pide are equally sensational.
Getting There & Away
Half-hourly buses connect Avanos with Göreme, Uçhisar, Nevşehir and Ürgüp, costing TL1.50 to TL3.
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ÜRGÜP
0384 / pop 15,500
If you have a soft spot for upmarket hotels and fine dining, you need look no further – Ürgüp is the place you’re after. The ever-growing battalion of boutique hotels in the town’s honey-coloured stone buildings (from pre-1923 when the town had a large Greek population) are proving very popular with travellers. With a spectacular natural setting and a wonderful location at the very heart of central Cappadocia, this is one of the most seductive holiday spots in the whole of Turkey.
There are internet cafés, banks with ATMs and restaurants around Cumhuriyet Meydanı, the main square. Many of the boutique hotels are on Esbelli Hill.
Sleeping
Hotel Elvan ( 341 4191; www.hotelelvan.com; Barbaros Hayrettin Sokak 11; s/d/tr TL35/60/80; ) A friendly welcome and homely atmosphere await you at this unpretentious but immaculate guesthouse. There’s a small roof terrace and comfortable dining room. It’s excellent value.
Yıldız Hotel ( 341 4610; www.yildizhotel.com; Kayseri Caddesi; s TL30-60, d TL60-100) Nowhere near as impressive as the other budget options mentioned here, Yıldız offers old-fashioned rooms that are clean but in need of a paint job and new carpet.
Cappadocia Palace ( 341 2510; www.hotel-cappadocia.com; Duayeri Mahallesi Mektep Sokak 2; standard s/d/tr TL35/70/85, cave TL60/120/140; ) This large, comfortable hotel is housed in a converted Greek mansion near Cumhuriyet Meydanı. There’s a lovely arched restaurant-lounge and an attractive foyer area. Book ahead.
Razziya Evi ( 341 5089; www.razziyaevi.com; Cingilli Sokak 24; s/d/tr TL70/80/120) This lovingly restored evi (house) has seven cheerful