Middle East - Anthony Ham [513]
Orientation & Information
Along different stretches, the city’s main thoroughfare is called Atatürk, Köprübaşı, Sarayönü and Divan Yolu Caddesis. The otogar is about 1km from the centre (but should be relocated out of town in the near future).
The PTT, most banks with ATMs and internet cafés are on or near the main drag. For tourist information, contact Harran-Nemrut Tours ( 215 1575, 0542-761 3065; Köprübaşı; ozcan_aslan_teacher@hotmail.com; 8.30am-6pm). The owner speaks very good English.
Sights
Gölbaşı park, surrounded by a complex of mosques, is a symbolic recreation of a legend in which the Islamic prophet Abraham (İbrahim) ended up, quite literally, in a bed of roses after a tussle with Nimrod, the Assyrian king. Pilgrims come to pay their respects, then feed fat, sacred carp in a pool nearby. After doing this, you can explore the wonderful bazaar . It’s a jumble of streets, some covered, some open, selling everything from sheepskins and pigeons to jeans and handmade shoes.
The kale (fortress; admission TL2; 8am-8pm) on Damlacık hill, from which Abraham was supposedly tossed, is Urfa’s most striking feature. It looks magnificent when floodlit and can be reached via a flight of stairs or a tunnel cut through the rock. Come up here for unobstructed views over Urfa.
It’s also worth visiting the numerous mosques dotted in the centre.
About 50km to the southeast, Harran is one of the oldest continuously occupied settlements in the world. Its ruined walls, Ulu Cami, crumbling fortress and beehive houses are powerful, evocative sights.
Getting to Harran is straightforward – you don’t need to take a tour. Minibuses (TL5, one hour) leave Urfa’s otogar approximately every hour and drop you in the new part of Harran near the belediye and PTT, a 10-minute walk from the old part. Harran-Nemrut Tours is a good operator if you want to go on a tour.
Sleeping
Otel Doğu ( 215 1228; Sarayönü Caddesi; s/d TL15/25) The minimalist ‘reception’ is off-putting, but the rooms are fine for the price, with clean-smelling bathrooms, bare floors, a super-central location and double glazing. Some have shared bathrooms. The catch? No air-con and no fan.
Hotel Bakay ( /fax 215 8975/4007; Asfalt Yol Caddesi; s/d TL30/50; ) A safe bet that won’t hurt the pocket, the Bakay is remarkably clean, but be prepared to trip over your backpack in the tiny rooms. Some are brighter than others, so ask to ogle a few before settling in. It’s popular with Turkish families: a good sign for female travellers.
Hotel İpek Palas ( 215 1546; Köprübaşı Dünya Hastanesi Arkası; s/d TL30/50, without bathroom TL20/30; ) Despite its peeling walls and tatty carpets, the İpek delivers the goods perfectly adequately, with friendly staff, functional bathrooms and an ace location. Breakfast is skimpy, but Zahter Kahvaltı, a good spot to eat on Köprübaşı Caddesi, is nearby.
Hotel Rabis ( 216 9595; www.hotelrabis.com, in Turkish; Sarayönü Caddesi; s/d TL60/80; ) Urfa’s latest arrival is a model of shiny midrange quality, with thick carpets, flat-screen TVs and double glazing. There’s good views from the rooftop terrace, too. One of the best deals in town.
Hotel Arte ( 314 7060; www.otel-arte.com.tr; Atatürk Bulvarı; s/d TL60/90; ) Style and sleekness in Urfa? Yes, it’s possible. The design-led interior of the Arte features Barbie-esque plastic chairs, laminate floors, contemporary furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows.
Eating & Drinking
It pays to be a bit careful what you eat in Urfa, especially in summer, because the heat makes food poisoning more likely. The city is famed for its atmospheric konuk evi, charming 19th-century stone mansions that have been converted into restaurants and, to a lesser extent, hotels.
Hacıbaba Kadayıf (Sarayönü Caddesi; pastries TL2) Back home, don’t tell your dietician about the peynirli kadayıf (cheese-filled shredded wheat doused in honey) at this little den near the Yusuf Paşa Camii.
Çift Mağara ( 215 9757; Çift Kubbe Altı Bal