Middle East - Anthony Ham [515]
Damlacık Garden Camping ( 0416-741 2027; campsites per person TL5; ) At Damlacık, about 2km from the junction for the entrance gate of Mt Nemrut National Park.
Arsemia Kafeterya & Kamping ( 0416-741 2118, 0505-320 0882; arsemia_52@hotmail.com; campsites per person TL5, d per person TL15) In Eski Kale, about 1km past the entrance gate of the national park.
Karadut Pension ( 0416-737 2169; www.karadutpansiyon.net; campsites per person TL5, d per person TL20; ) This pension-cum-hostel at the northern end of Karadut has 11 neat rooms (some with air-con), cleanish bathrooms and a kitchen you can use.
Pension Kommagene ( /fax 725 9726/5548; Mustafa Kemal Caddesi; campsites per person TL7, s/d without breakfast TL35/50; ) The most obvious choice for tight-fisted travellers, primarily because of the lack of competitors in this price bracket. Rooms are not flashy but clean, secure and well organised. Add TL6 for breakfast.
Hotel Nemrut ( 725 6881; www.hotelnemrut.net; Mustafa Kemal Caddesi; s/d TL45/70; ) Your run-of-the-mill motel, with uninspiring yet well-maintained rooms. Tour groups stop here on their way to Nemrut. A few smiles in reception would sweeten the deal.
Zeus Hotel ( 725 5694; www.zeushotel.com.tr; Mustafa Kemal Caddesi; campsites per person TL20, s/d TL80/100; ) Another group-friendly stalwart, this solid three-star option gets an A+ for its swimming pool in the manicured garden. Angle for the renovated rooms, which feature top-notch bathrooms and flat-screen tellies.
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GAZİANTEP (ANTEP)
0342 / pop 1.1 million
Antep is a greatly underrated city that proclaims a modern, laissez-faire attitude while thumbing its nose at Urfa’s piety. It’s one of the most desirable places to live in eastern Anatolia, with the biggest city park this side of the Euphrates and a buzzing café culture. It also boasts one attraction that makes the trip across Turkey well worth the fare: the Mosaic Museum.
Orientation & Information
The throbbing heart of Gaziantep is the intersection of Atatürk Bulvarı/Suburcu Caddesi and Hürriyet/İstasyon Caddesis, marked by a large statue of Atatürk. Most hotels, banks with ATMs and sights are within walking distance of this intersection. The otogar is about 6km from the town centre. The train station is 800m north.
The tourist office ( 230 5969; 100 Yıl Atatürk Kültür Parkı İçi; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) is in the city park.
Sights
The unmissable kale (citadel; admission free; 8.30am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) offers superb vistas over the city. Not far south of the citadel is a buzzing bazaar area, which has recently been restored and includes Zincirli Bedesten. Scattered in the centre are numerous old stone houses and caravanserai, also being restored as part of Gaziantep’s ongoing regeneration.
Don’t skip the Gaziantep Museum (Mosaic Museum; 324 8809; İstasyon Caddesi; admission TL2; 8.30am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun), with its display of fabulous mosaics unearthed at the rich Roman site of Belkıs-Zeugma.
Sleeping
Gaziantep is rolling in accommodation, much of it on or near Suburcu, Hürriyet and Atatürk Caddesis.
Yunus Hotel ( 221 1722; hotelyunus@hotel.com; Kayacık Sokak; s/d TL30/50; ) As far as physical beauty goes, this a real plain Jane, but it’s a secure spot to hang your rucksack, the rates are good and it’s handily set in the centre of town.
Hotel Veliç ( 221 2212; www.velicotel.com; Atatürk Bulvarı; s/d TL35/55; ) A recent lick of paint (yellow and lilac) has elevated this concrete lump on the main drag a couple of notches up the comfort ladder. The rooms are on the small side, but top marks go to the bright top-floor breakfast area.
Yesemek Otel ( 220 8888; www.yesemekotel.com; İsmail Sokak; s/d TL50/70; ) Bang in the thick of things, this well-regarded pile offers great service and facilities, including a restaurant and a private otopark, although its executive look doesn’t really