Middle East - Anthony Ham [525]
Local Transport
With a few exceptions, you probably won’t use public buses in large cities. In İstanbul, the underground metro and the tram are quick and efficient ways of getting around.
Taxis are plentiful. They have meters – just make sure they’re switched on.
Train
Turkish State Railways (TCDD; www.tcdd.gov.tr/tcdding) runs services across the country, but it has a hard time competing with long-distance buses for speed and comfort. Don’t plan a trans-Turkey train trip in one go as the country is large and trains can be slow. For example, the Vangölü Ekspresi from İstanbul to Lake Van (1900km), takes almost two days. Buses take less than 24 hours, planes less than two hours. Only between Ankara and İstanbul is travel fast and pleasant.
Return to beginning of chapter
Middle East Directory
* * *
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BUSINESS HOURS
CHILDREN
CLIMATE CHARTS
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
DISCOUNT CARDS
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
INSURANCE
Internet Access
MONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
Smoking
SOLO TRAVELLERS
Telephone
TIME
TOILETS
TOURIST INFORMATION
TRAVELLERS with disabilities
Visas
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
WORK
* * *
This chapter provides a general overview of essential things you need to know about the Middle East, covering, in alphabetical order, everything from Accommodation and Activities to Women Travellers and Work. Each individual country chapter also has a Directory section that includes more specific information about these headings as they relate to each country. Please consult both when searching for information.
ACCOMMODATION
In most countries of the Middle East, you’ll find accommodation that ranges from cheap and nasty to plush and palatial; most places sit comfortably somewhere in between. Throughout this book, accommodation is divided into price categories (budget, midrange and top end); within each category prices run from cheapest to most expensive. For the way these price categories are defined and the amenities you can expect from country to country, read the Accommodation section in the Directory section of each individual country chapter.
* * *
BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE
For more accommodation reviews and recommendations by Lonely Planet authors, check out lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’ll find the true, insider lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews are thorough and independent. Best of all, you can book online.
* * *
Generally Syria and Egypt have the cheapest accommodation, while Turkey, Jordan, Israel and the Palestinian Territories and Lebanon will cost a little more. However, travel through the Middle East is now such a well-worn path that in most major destinations covered by this book you’ll find at least one high-quality place to suit your budget, whether you’re travelling on a shoestring or an expense account.
Camping
Camping in the Middle East is possible. Stick to officially sanctioned campsites because many areas that are military or restricted zones aren’t always marked as such and erecting a tent on an army firing range won’t be a highlight of your trip. There are official camping grounds in Egypt, Lebanon, Turkey and Israel and the Palestinian Territories.
Hostels
There are youth hostels in Egypt, Israel and the Palestinian Territories. It’s not usually necessary to hold a Hostelling International card to stay at these places, but it will get you a small discount.
Hotels
Standards vary between countries but price usually (not always) reflect quality.
In hotels at the bottom end of the price scale, rooms are not always clean. In fact, let’s be honest: they can be downright filthy, and shared showers and toilets often bear traces of the previous users. Very cheap hotels are just dormitories where you’re crammed into a room with whoever else fronts