Middle East - Anthony Ham [548]
The carnet may also need to specify any expensive spare parts that you’re planning to carry with you, such as a gearbox, which is designed to prevent any spare-part importation rackets. Contact your local automobile association for details about all necessary documentation at least three months in advance.
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The Trans-Asya Ekspresi train runs between Tehran and İstanbul, travelling via Tabriz, Van and Tatvan. Expect a comfortable journey on connecting Turkish and Iranian trains, a ferry ride across Lake Van, and no showers. See the Iranian Railways site, RAJA Passenger Train Co (www.rajatrains.com), for more information. There’s also a weekly train service between Tehran (Iran) and Damascus (Syria) via Van, Malatya and Aleppo. See www.tcdd.gov.tr for more information.
Of the five major crossing points between Iraq and Iran, the only one that may be open to tourists is at the busy Iraqi border town of Haji Omaran, 180km northeast of Erbil. To cross here, you will need a pre-arranged Iranian visa. Check with the local authorities before travelling.
Car & Motorcycle
Anyone planning to take their own vehicle with them needs to check in advance what spare parts and petrol are likely to be available (Click here).
A number of documents are also required (if you’re unsure what to take, check with the automobile association in your home country):
Carnet de passage See the boxed text, above.
Green card Issued by insurers. Insurance for some countries is only obtainable at the border.
International Driving Permit (IDP) Although most foreign licences are acceptable in Middle Eastern countries, an IDP issued by your local automobile association is highly recommended, and is required for entry with a vehicle at some border crossings.
Vehicle registration documents In addition to carrying all ownership papers, check with your insurer whether you’re covered for the countries you intend to visit and whether third-party cover is included.
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SEA
Ferries shuttle reasonably regularly between southern Europe and Israel, Turkey and Egypt. There are other less-frequented routes connecting Egypt with Sudan and the Arabian Peninsula. In summer, you might also come across services operating between Cyprus and Syria, but these are highly seasonal and change from year to year.
As well as the services listed below, some cruise liners call at Middle Eastern ports such as Suez or Alexandria, but these are beyond the scope of this book. A good travel agent should be able to tell you what’s available in the season you are travelling.
Unless stated otherwise, all services run in both directions. When booking, remember that a slight discount may apply on return tickets; student, youth or child fares may be possible on some lines. Schedules tend to change at least annually according to demand; fares, too, often fluctuate according to season, especially on the Mediterranean routes.
Although vehicles can be shipped on most of the following routes, bookings may have to be made some time in advance. The charge usually depends on the length or volume of the vehicle and should be checked with the carrier. As a rule, motorcycles cost almost nothing to ship while bicycles are free.
You’re unlikely to regret taking an adequate supply of food and drink with you on any of these ships; even if it’s available on board, you’re pretty stuck if it doesn’t agree with you or your budget.
Cyprus
From Haifa (Israel and the Palestinian Territories), there are overnight passenger and cargo ferries to Limassol in Cyprus (10 hours). From Limassol, there are ferry connections to Greek ports, including Piraeus (the port for Athens). The ferry is operated by Rosenfeld Shipping ( 04-861 3671; www.rosenfeld.net). Note that when demand is low, the service may be suspended.
From Port Said (Egypt), boats to Limassol in Cyprus depart twice weekly from May to November. For information and tickets, visit one of the many shipping agencies in Port