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Middle East - Anthony Ham [557]

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inquire at your point of departure.

Don’t rely on street names (there are often several versions and the driver may recognise your pronunciation of none of them). If you’re going to a well-known destination (such as a big hotel), find out if it’s close to a local landmark (check the Lonely Planet map if there is one) and give the driver the local name for the landmark. Even better, get someone to write down the name in Arabic or whatever the local language is.

Make sure you’re dropped off at the right place.

Avoid using unlicensed cab drivers at airports or bus stations.

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Shared taxis are much cheaper than private taxis and, once you get the hang of them, can be just as convenient. They are dearer than buses, but more frequent and usually faster, because they don’t stop so often or for so long. They also tend to operate for longer hours than buses. They can be used for urban, intercity or rural transport, but not necessarily all three in a particular place.

Fixed-route taxis wait at the point of departure until full or nearly full. Usually they pick up or drop off passengers anywhere en route, but in some places they have fixed halts or stations. Sometimes each service is allocated a number, which may be indicated on the vehicle. Generally, a flat fare applies for each route, but sometimes it’s possible to pay a partial fare.

Shared taxis without routes are supreme examples of market forces at work. If the price is right you’ll quickly find a taxi willing to take you almost anywhere, but if you’re prepared to wait a while, or to do your journey in stages, you can get around very cheaply. Fares depend largely on time and distance, but can also vary slightly according to demand.

Beware of boarding an empty one, as the driver may assume you want to hire the vehicle for your exclusive use and charge you accordingly. It’s advisable to watch what other passengers pay and to hand over your fare in front of them. Passengers are expected to know where they are getting off. ‘Thank you’ in the local language is the usual cue for the driver to stop. Make it clear to the driver or other passengers if you want to be told when you reach your destination.


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TRAIN

There are train networks in Egypt, Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Syria and Turkey and these can represent the best transport option on some routes, such as between Cairo and Luxor in Egypt, or between Aleppo and Lattakia in Syria, for example. Levels of comfort vary from country to country – many of Egypt’s trains are badly in need of an overhaul, while Syria and Turkey use new trains on some routes and the entire system is improving all the time.

Most railway lines in the region were built primarily for strategic or economic reasons, and many are either no longer in use or only carry freight, meaning that networks are not as extensive as they first appear. In general, trains are less frequent and usually slower than buses, while many stations are some distance out of the town centres they serve.

In general, tickets are only sold at the station and reservations are either compulsory or highly recommended.

International train services are few and far between in the Middle East. There is a once-weekly train service that runs between Damascus and İstanbul (via Aleppo) – Click here and Click here for details. Check to see whether service has resumed along the Amman–Damascus line and whether the planned Damascus–Beirut service has opened.


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Health


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BEFORE YOU GO

INSURANCE

RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

MEDICAL CHECKLIST

INTERNET RESOURCES

FURTHER READING

IN TRANSIT

Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT)

JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS

IN THE MIDDLE EAST

AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE

INFECTIOUS DISEASES

TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA

ENVIRONMENTaL HAZARDS

TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN

WOMEN’S HEALTH

* * *

Prevention is the key to staying healthy while travelling in the Middle East. Infectious diseases can and do occur in the Middle East, but these are usually associated with poor living

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