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Anchovies with Fried Bread

SERVES 6 · PHOTO SEAFOOD & MEAT ANTIPASTI

Four ½-inch-thick slices filone or other crusty bread, cut into ½-inch cubes

About ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 ounces marinated white anchovies (boquerones), drained, any liquid reserved

4 scallions, thinly sliced

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Toss the bread with 2 tablespoons of the oil and spread out in a single layer on a baking sheet. Toast in the oven until dark golden brown, about 12 minutes.

Combine the anchovies, croutons, and scallions in a medium bowl, tossing to mix. Whisk the reserved anchovy liquid, then add enough olive oil to make 2 tablespoons. Add to the anchovies, stirring gently. Let stand at room temperature for at least 2 hours before serving. (The anchovies can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Octopus & Celery

SERVES 6 · PHOTO SEAFOOD & MEAT ANTIPASTI

One 3-pound octopus (frozen is fine), sac, beak, and eyes removed (have the fishmonger do this)

1½ cups dry white wine

2 small red onions, thinly sliced

2 carrots, thinly sliced

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 bay leaf, preferably fresh

1 sprig each fresh Italian parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme

1 celery heart with tender leaves, base cut off, fibrous strings removed with a vegetable peeler, and thinly sliced

¼ cup red wine vinegar

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Maldon or other flaky sea salt

Combine the octopus, wine, onions, carrots, sliced celery ribs, herbs, and a wine cork, if you have one (the cork helps tenderize the octopus), in a large pot, add enough water to cover the octopus, and bring to boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and simmer gently until the thickest part of the octopus is tender when pierced with a knife, about 1 hour. Remove from the heat and allow to cool in the broth.

Drain the octopus (discard the vegetables and cork). Cut off the tentacles and strip the skin and suckers from the tentacles (the skin will come off easily once the octopus is cooked). Cut the head and tentacles into 1-inch pieces.

Combine the octopus, sliced celery heart, vinegar, and oil in a large bowl, mixing well. Season well with salt and serve, or let stand for 1 hour to bring out the flavors. (The octopus can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; bring to room temperature before serving.)

Sardines in Saor

SERVES 6 · PHOTO SEAFOOD & MEAT ANTIPASTI

1 medium fennel bulb

1 pound fresh sardines

Maldon or other flaky sea salt

½ cup champagne vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 bay leaf, preferably fresh

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ cup raisins

¼ cup pine nuts, toasted (see Glossary)

Cut the stalks off the fennel bulb and reserve the fronds for garnish. Halve the fennel bulb lengthwise. Using a Benriner (Japanese mandoline) or other vegetable slicer, shave the fennel into paper-thin slices; or use a large sharp knife to slice it as thin as possible.

To prepare the sardines, scrape off any scales with a blunt knife; cut off the fins. Cut off the head and tail of each fish and slit it open down the stomach. Pull out the backbone and the guts (a messy job but quite easy). Open out the fish and cut the 2 fillets apart. Rinse the sardines well under cold water to remove any blood, and pat dry.

Lay the fillets skin side up in a baking dish that holds them in a single layer, sprinkle with salt, and scatter the shaved fennel over them.

Combine the vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, cinnamon, and raisins in a small saucepan, bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and boil for 3 minutes. Pour the vinegar mixture evenly over the sardines. Let cool before serving. (The sardines can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; serve cold, or bring to room temperature before serving.)

Just before serving, scatter the pine nuts and reserved fennel fronds over the sardines.

Meat Antipasti

These are the delectable salumi we serve as antipasti. It’s best to choose several