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Return the garlic oil to medium heat, add the pasta and ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water, and stir and toss over medium heat to coat the pasta well (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side.

Spaghetti with Butter

SERVES 6 · PHOTO PASTA

Kosher salt

1 pound spaghetti

6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks

Coarsely ground black pepper

Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for serving

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook just until al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup of the pasta water. Pour the reserved pasta water into another large pot and bring just to a boil. Reduce the heat and whisk in the butter bit by bit, without letting it melt completely, until you have a light, creamy sauce. Add the pasta and stir and toss to coat well. Remove from the heat and season with pepper. Serve immediately, with grated Parmigiano on the side.

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OUR FAVORITE OLIVE OILS

ITALIAN RIVIERA

These are delicate and light, with a grassy fragrance and less viscosity than the Tuscan oils.

Ceppo Antico

Alex Nember

Rosmarino

Vittorio Cassini

TUSCANY

More intensely “green” in color and flavor, these are more powerful players in any dish.

Tenuta di Capezzana

La Mozza

Frescobaldi Laudemio

Castello di Ama

Badia a Coltibuono

Volpaia

SICILY

These are potentially similar to Tuscan oils, but they are available fresher in late winter because of their January harvest schedule.

Trappitu

Frantoi Cutrera Primo

Olio Verde

Geraci

HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA

This is very much like a Tuscan oil—in fact, the olive trees came from Tuscany.

DaVero

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Spaghetti with White Truffles

SERVES 6 · PHOTO PASTA

Kosher salt

1 pound spaghetti

10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks

2 ounces fresh white truffles

Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt. Drop in the pasta and cook until just al dente.

Drain the pasta, reserving 2/3 cup of the pasta water. Pour the reserved pasta water into another large pot, add the butter, and bring to a boil, whisking to emulsify the sauce. Add the pasta and stir and toss to coat well.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl, shave the truffles over it, and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Black Truffles

SERVES 6 · PHOTO PASTA

Kosher salt

10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks) unsalted butter

2 ounces canned sliced black truffles in oil, drained

1 pound spaghetti

2 ounces cacio di Roma, grated

Bring 6 quarts water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in another large pot over medium-high heat, and cook until the butter begins to brown and smell fragrant, about 2 minutes. Stir in the truffles and remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about ½ cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water to the truffle butter and stir and toss over medium heat until the pasta is well coated (add a splash or two more of the reserved pasta water if necessary to loosen the sauce). Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and serve immediately.

Spaghetti with Caviar

SERVES 6 · PHOTO PASTA

Kosher salt

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound spaghetti

Caviar—as much as you are willing to use (we like osetra from Russ & Daughters; see Sources)

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot and add 3 tablespoons kosher salt.

Meanwhile, combine the oil and butter in another large pot and heat over medium heat until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until just al dente. Drain, reserving about ½ cup of the pasta water.

Add the pasta and ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water to the butter mixture and stir