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EQUIPMENT

Here is a list of equipment we recommend for any pastry kitchen:

FINE STRAINER, also called a CHINOIS: This is essential for straining cooked custard bases, fruit purees, etc. Look for one that will hook over the bowl or other container, which will free up your hands when you strain any mixture.

MICROPLANE: One of the greatest inventions in pastrydom in the past fifteen years, this rasp grater is used to zest citrus, as well as to grate ginger and spices such as nutmeg.

SCALE: An electronic or spring-loaded scale is invaluable in pastry making—it is much more accurate and foolproof than measuring by volume, using measuring cups and spoons.

INSTANT-READ DIGITAL THERMOMETER: Using a thermometer is the most accurate way to monitor the cooking of a custard base.

IMMERSION BLENDER: A small handheld immersion blender is useful for mixing certain gelato bases, pureeing fruit, and other tasks.

ICE CREAM MAKER: There are basically two types of units available for churning ice cream. One version has an insulated bucket/cylinder that you must put in the freezer for at least twenty-four hours before inserting it in the hand-cranked or motorized chamber. The other type, which is larger and more expensive, is a self-contained motorized freezer unit. You can use either type for these recipes.

FOOD PROCESSOR: Among other tasks, a food processor is useful for grinding nuts and other flavoring ingredients such as coffee beans, whole spices, and more.

A 2-QUART HEAVY-BOTTOMED SAUCEPAN: A heavy pan is essential for cooking custard bases and making caramel.

BOWLS: Metal bowls are best, as they conduct heat/cold well (and will never break), and they can be used over heat or in an ice bath. A bowl that fits snugly over your 2-quart saucepan is invaluable.

HAND TOOLS: These include heatproof spatulas for stirring custards, a medium metal whisk, a small ladle, an offset spatula, and a set of sharp knives.

ICE BATH: It is important to chill cooked custard bases as quickly as possible, for safety reasons, and the most efficient way to do this is with an ice bath. Fill a container slightly larger than the one that you will strain the cooked base into with ice and a little cold water. Stir the base frequently while it is sitting in the bath so it cools quickly, then cover and chill in the refrigerator.

Strawberry Gelato

Campari Grapefruit Sorbetto

Cantaloupe Sorbetto

Lemon Sorbetto

Sweet Corn Coppetta

WITH BLACKBERRY SAUCE

Caramel Coppetta

Ricotta Coppetta

Black & White Coppetta

Olive Oil Coppetta

Gelato

Crème Fraîche Gelato

MAKES ABOUT 5 CUPS

Crème fraîche is cultured heavy cream. It’s available in gourmet shops and many supermarkets, but it’s easy to make your own: Combine 4 parts heavy cream with 1 part buttermilk in a covered container and let it stand at cool room temperature (65° to 70°F) for 24 to 36 hours, until it thickens and sours slightly. Stir it well, and refrigerate it until ready to use; it will keep for up to a week. Because crème fraîche contains a lot of fat, this gelato needs no egg yolks or other emulsifiers to give it a luscious mouthfeel.

2 cups milk

½ cup sugar

½ cup corn syrup

1¾ cups (14 ounces) crème fraîche

½ teaspoon salt

Combine the milk, sugar, and corn syrup in a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved and the temperature registers 160°F on an instant-read thermometer. Pour the mixture into a heatproof bowl and chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold.

Using an immersion blender or a whisk, mix the crème fraîche and salt into the milk mixture. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into another bowl or container, cover, and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, or, preferably, overnight.

Whisk the crème fraîche mixture until smooth. Freeze the gelato in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Pack into a freezer container and freeze for at least 1 hour before serving. (The gelato