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If you are cooking more than a small amount of sugar, set a lid or a metal bowl over the pan: the condensation created by the lid will wash down any sugar on the sides of the pan, preventing it from crystallizing. Keep an eye on the color of the cooking sugar; when it turns light brown, remove the lid or bowl, if using, and gently swirl the pan to keep the caramel cooking evenly. To obtain a very deep, complex caramel flavor, the caramel should be dark brown, with tiny bubbles gradually changing to slow thick ones, and, eventually, smoke rising from the pan. Now it is time to act fast! Remove the pan from the heat and immediately but carefully whisk in the liquid you are using in the recipe to stop the caramel from cooking any further. Be careful, as the mixture will bubble up. Return the pan to gentle heat if necessary to dissolve any hardened caramel, stirring until it melts, then remove from the heat.

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Black & White Coppetta

SERVES 6 · PHOTO GELATO & SORBETTO

This is our variation on the familiar chocolate/vanilla combination, with a tangy crème fraîche and caramel crema and the crunch and appealing bitterness of hazelnut croccante.

3 cups Milk Chocolate Chip Gelato (Gelato & Sorbetto)

Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)

2 cups Caramel Crema (Gelato & Sorbetto)

Hazelnut Croccante for garnish (Gelato & Sorbetto)

Divide the gelato among six sundae dishes or bowls. Drizzle with the chocolate sauce and top with the caramel crema. Garnish with the croccante.

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

MAKES A GENEROUS 1 CUP

5 ounces extra bittersweet chocolate (75%), finely chopped

¾ cup sugar

¼ cup water

¾ cup heavy cream

Put the chopped chocolate in a medium heatproof bowl.

Combine the sugar and water in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring until the sugar is evenly moistened. Cook over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionaly, until the caramel is a golden amber color.

Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the cream; the mixture will bubble up. Return the pan to low heat and stir to dissolve any hardened caramel.

Pour the caramel cream over the chocolate and stir to melt the chocolate thoroughly. (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 week; reheat in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water before serving.)

VARIATION: CHOCOLATE ROSEMARY SAUCE

When steeping an herb in hot cream, it is important to keep the liquid uncovered; covering the pan would cause the herb to discolor and wilt, which can ruin the flavor.

Bring the cream to a simmer in a small saucepan. Add 1 fresh rosemary sprig, remove from the heat, and allow to steep, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Remove the rosemary, and proceed as directed.

CARAMEL CREMA

MAKES 4 CUPS

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons water

2 cups heavy cream

5 large egg yolks

Pinch of salt

¼ vanilla bean, split, or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine 1/3 cup of the sugar and the water in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, stirring to moisten the sugar evenly. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, then cook, without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the caramel is a dark, slightly smoky brown.

Immediately remove the pan from the heat and carefully pour in the heavy cream (the mixture will bubble up). Return the pan to the heat and stir to dissolve the hardened caramel. Remove from the heat.

Whisk the egg yolks, the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, and the salt together in a medium heatproof bowl. Gradually whisk in about 1 cup of the hot caramel cream, then return the mixture to the saucepan, add the vanilla bean, if using, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula or a wooden spoon, until the custard registers 185°F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately strain the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatprool bowl. Stir in the vanilla extract, if using. Chill over an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until cold, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

When ready