Molto Gusto_ Easy Italian Cooking - Mario Batali [55]
MICROPLANE GRATER The Microplane is a rasp grater that has made the task of zesting citrus fruit immeasurably less tedious. There are now many different versions of the original Microplane (and other brands as well); the basic cheese grater/zester is versatile enough for most jobs. Less clunky than a box grater and decidedly sexier, the rasp gives you more control in finishing a dish with Parmigiano or another cheese. We often use a Microplane to shave bottarga over a dish.
MOSTARDA Mostarda di Cremona, also called mostarda di frutta, is a condiment made of fruits preserved in a thick sweet syrup that is seasoned aggressively with ground mustard seed and other spices. It is a classic accompaniment to boiled meats in Lombardy and other parts of northern Italy. Mostarda can be found in Italian specialty markets or ordered online (see Sources)—and see our recipe for apricot mostarda on Bruschetta & Cheese.
MOZZARELLA Mozzarella is what is known as a pulled-curd cheese, pasta filata in Italian, because of the way it is made: big blocks of curd from either buffalo or cow’s milk are cut into smaller pieces and soaked in hot water until the curd releases its liquid, the whey. Then the curd is kneaded by hand and stretched until it has reached the proper consistency. At exactly the right moment, the cheesemaker shapes the cheese by ripping off pieces (a technique known as mozzando, from the verb mozzare—thus mozzarella) and forming them into large or small balls. The smaller balls are called bocconcini or, sometimes, ciliegini, meaning “little cherries.” Stretching and pulling the curd gives the cheese its characteristic slightly stringy consistency, resulting from the many layers that comprise the final product. Originally produced almost exclusively in Campania and Sicily, mozzarella di bufalo is protected under D.O.P. regulations; today it is also made in Basilicata and Calabria. Buffalo mozzarella has more flavor than mozzarella made with cow’s milk; it is sweet with a slight tang and a creamy, milky bite. It is an essential part of the wood-fired pizze of Naples, and it is often served on its own, accompanied by a slice of grilled bread (bruschetta) and perhaps a simple salad. That said, some artisanal producers today are using cow’s milk for their mozzarella, with slightly different but very good results. Fresh mozzarella may be salted or unsalted; it can also be smoked. Look for fresh mozzarella at an Italian or cheese market; avoid at all costs the rubbery slabs of domestic mozzarella in the supermarket.
NUTS To toast nuts, spread them on a baking sheet and toast in a 350°F oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the type of nut. (Pine nuts can burn easily, so check on them frequently.) Transfer to a plate to cool.
OLIVE OIL The pressed extract of the fruit of the olive tree, olive oil is produced in nearly every province of Italy. Each has its own style and flavor, which in turn defines the style and flavor of the region’s cooking. I recommend keeping at least two kinds of oil in the pantry: a boutique Tuscan or Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, for anointing both raw and cooked foods at the moment they are served, and a less expensive extra virgin oil from a larger producer—that is, a less distinctive but still high-quality oil, at a much lower price—for everything else, including frying and sautéing. That said, in my opinion, you simply cannot scrimp when buying extra virgin olive oil. Choose