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Moosewood Restaurant Simple Suppers - Moosewood Collective [70]

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in Canada and the United States. Most are made with cow’s milk, except Roquefort, which is always made with sheep’s milk.

BRIE is a ripened cheese with an edible white mold rind. It has a smooth, buttery texture and flavor.

CHEDDAR, both mild and sharp, is widely available and versatile.

CHÈVRE is a smooth and slightly tangy fresh goat cheese.

HAVARTI named after a farm in Denmark, is a semi-soft, creamy cheese with small irregular holes. Dilled Havarti is flecked with dill.

FETA is a salty, white cheese made from sheep’s, goats’, or cows’ milk. It varies from mild and creamy to quite sharp.

FONTINA, mild but distinctly flavored, is made in Denmark and the United States.

FRESH MOZZARELLA is mild, creamy cheese that comes in balls packed in water. Look for it in the dairy case or in supermarket delis or salad bars.

GRUYÈRE is a delicious, dense, nutty cheese.

NEUFCHÂTEL has one-third less fat than cream cheese, without sacrificing texture or flavor. Neufchâtel is what we most often use when a recipe calls for cream cheese.

PARMESAN is a firm, aged cheese, best when freshly shaved, shredded, or grated.

PECORINO ROMANO made from sheep’s milk, is usually stronger and sharper than Parmesan. Like Parmesan, grate it fresh.

RICOTTA traditionally used in Italian cooking for both sweet and savory dishes, is soft, fresh, and mild-tasting, with a creamy texture. Ricotta cheese is available as a whole milk, reduced fat, or nonfat product.

RICOTTA SALATA is salted, pressed ricotta, a firm cheese with a dry texture.

SMOKED CHEESES are infused with a smoky flavor either by exposure to a hickory wood fire, by the addition of smoked salt, or by adding a chemical called liquid smoke during cheesemaking. The most readily available smoked cheeses are Cheddar, Gouda, Swiss, and Mozzarella. Look for naturally smoked cheeses in natural foods stores and gourmet cheese shops.

SOY CHEESE is a vegan alternative to cheese made with dairy milk. Developed over the past 15 years, new soy cheese products that approximate a particular type of cheese, such as Cheddar or Parmesan, appear in our market often.

CHILES (HOT PEPPERS, CHILI PEPPERS) There are many, many types of chiles, and their heat varies wildly even among chiles of the same type, so taste to determine how much to use. For less heat, remove the seeds and membrane, which are the hottest parts. Refrigerated in a plastic bag, fresh chiles will keep for about 5 days. Frozen whole chiles can be kept for up to a year; sliced or chopped, for 6 months.

CHINESE CHILI PASTE Supermarkets usually carry a wide variety of chili pastes, most of which include crushed, fermented chiles, salt, soy oil, and garlic. We’ve found that the simpler the ingredient list, the better. Look for bottled brands without preservatives. Tightly capped and refrigerated, Chinese chili paste keeps indefinitely. If you don’t have Chinese chili paste, substitute pressed garlic and some minced fresh chile pepper.

CHIPOTLES IN ADOBO SAUCE usually packed in small cans, are whole smoked jalapeños in a thick, flavorful tomato sauce called adobo that usually contains tomatoes, vinegar, onions, ground chiles, sugar, spices, and herbs. The peppers are hotter than the sauce; we use only the sauce when we want a mellow yet flavorful smokiness. We like La Torre brand canned chipotles in adobo sauce.

CHUTNEY is a sweet-and-sour Indian condiment made with fruit, vegetables, and spices. Chutney is easily made (see pineapple chutney and cranberry chutney recipes), but a wide variety of prepared chutneys is available in the gourmet, Indian, or Asian aisle of most supermarkets.

COCONUT MILK smooth, thick, and richly flavored, is made from water and grated coconut that has been puréed and strained. It comes canned in regular and reduced-fat versions and is available free of preservatives and additives. Once the can is opened, the coconut milk will keep for about 3 days in the refrigerator. Frozen, it will last indefinitely. Pour leftover coconut milk into ice-cube trays and freeze it. Later, store the frozen cubes in a freezer bag;

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