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By Root 1865 0

the late 1990s the area between West 14th Street, Gansevoort Street, Hudson Street, and 11th Avenue speedily transformed into another kind of meat market. Many of the old warehouses now house ultrachic shops, nightclubs, and restaurants packed with angular fashionistas. Jeffrey, a pint-size department store, was an early arrival, followed by edgy but established designers like Stella McCartney and a few lofty furniture stores. Despite the influx of a few chains—albeit stylish ones like Scoop—eclectic boutiques keep popping up. The one thing it’s hard to find here is a bargain.

BEST TIME TO GO

Wednesday through Friday afternoons. Most stores are open daily, but a few are closed Monday and Tuesday. On weekends some stores stay open until 7 or 8 pm, overlapping with the overeager nightlife crowd.

BEST SOUVENIR FOR YOUR GIRLFRIEND (OR BOHO AUNT)

Jewelry from Ten Thousand Things or The Crangi Family Project. You can find something sweet, funky, or industrial—or a combination of them all.

REFUELING

Hit the buzzing bistro Pastis (9 9th Ave., at Little W. 12th St. | 10014 | 212/929–4844) for a croque monsieur, a bracing coffee, or a cocktail with the namesake hooch. For a quick stop, follow the smell of grilled meat to Pop Burger (58–60 9th Ave., between 14th and 15th Sts. | 10011 | 212/414–8686). The mini-burgers are tempting, but locals swear by the sides: crispy fries and onion rings, and thick-as-cement milk shakes.

BEST FOR

Fabulous frocks

Jeffrey: culls the coolest outfits from high-end labels.

Alexander McQueen: impeccably tailored, take-no-prisoners style.

Catherine Malandrino: romantic chiffon and swingy layers, at more-reasonable prices.

Denim

Earnest Sewn (821 Washington St. | 212/242–3414): customize the cut, buttons, and pockets of your cult jeans.

Killer accessories

La Perla: the most minxy outpost for this brand’s lace lingerie.

Christian Louboutin: vampy heels with telltale crimson soles.

SPOTLIGHT ON FIFTH AVENUE AND 57TH STREET

Fifth Avenue from Rockefeller Center to Central Park South pogos between landmark department stores, glossy international designer boutiques, and casual national chains. What they all have in common: massive flagship spaces.

The intersection of 5th Avenue with 57th Street distills this mix of old and new, exclusive and accessible. From these corners you’ll see blue-chip New York classics (jeweler Tiffany & Co., the Bergdorf Goodman department stores), luxury giants (Gucci and the glass box of Louis Vuitton), a high-tech wonderland (another glass box for Apple), and show-off digs for informal brands (NikeTown, Abercrombie & Fitch). Capping this shopping stretch at East 58th Street is the colossal, exceptional toy store FAO Schwarz. If you’re keen to shop the high end or to see the impressive flagships, it’s worth coming to this neighborhood—but if large-scale doesn’t do it for you, you’re better off heading downtown.

BEST TIME TO GO

Wednesday through Friday if you’re trying to avoid crowds. Weekends before the winter holidays get extremely hectic and can spark “sidewalk rage” in even the most patient shopper—try to come earlier in the week, especially if you want to see the fantastic department-store window displays.

BEST SOUVENIR FOR KIDS

An incredibly lifelike stuffed animal from FAO Schwarz. They’ve got exclusive Steiff “purebred” dogs, for instance, that come with authenticity certificates from the American Kennel Club.

REFUELING

Soothe frazzled nerves with a stop at Fika (41 W. 58th St., between 5th and 6th Aves. | 10019 | 212/832–0022), a calm, friendly Swedish café. Settle in for a meatball sandwich, a bracing cup of coffee, and a chocolate truffle. If you’d like to stay in the energetic current of 5th Avenue, nab a table, or a seat with a fold-down tray, at the stuck-in-the-’60s Primeburger (5 E. 51st St., between 5th and Madison Aves. | 10022 | 212/759–4729). Go for a diner classic like an all-day omelet or a burger with a side of curly fries.

BEST FOR

Department stores

Saks Fifth Avenue: fashion and nothing but.

Bergdorf Goodman: these partner stores