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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [194]

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and mushrooms topped with crème fraîche. There is also an interesting, reasonably priced list of wines and beers, and a selection of house-made desserts like chocolate cake with sea salt and caramel. | 511 E. 12th St., between First Ave. and Ave. A, East Village | 10003 | 212/228–5100 | www.northernspyfoodco.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, D, MC, V. | Subway: L to 1st Ave.

Prune.

$$ | NEW AMERICAN | There’s just something very right-on about the food at Prune, a cozy treasure of a restaurant serving eclectic, well-executed American food from cult chef Gabrielle Hamilton. The choices change with the season, but you might find braised rabbit legs in vinegar sauce, whole grilled fish with fennel oil and chunky sea salt, or roasted marrow bones with parsley salad and toast points. There’s usually a wait, and the quarters are very cramped, so don’t expect to feel comfortable lingering at your rickety wooden table. Desserts, like ricotta ice cream with salted-caramel croutons, are irresistible, and on weekends lines form early for the restaurant’s deservedly popular brunch. | 54 E. 1st St., between 1st and 2nd Aves., East Village | 10003-9313 | 212/677–6221 | www.prunerestaurant.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: F to 2nd Ave.

Veniero’s Pasticceria.

¢ | CAFÉ | More than a century old, this bustling bakery-café sells every kind of Italian dolce (sweet), from cherry-topped cookies to creamy cannoli and flaky sfogliatelle pastry. A wine license means you can top off an evening with a bottle of red. | 342 E. 11th St., near 1st Ave., East Village | 10003-7417 | 212/674–7070 | www.venierospastry.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 6 to Astor Pl.; L to 1st Ave.

LOWER EAST SIDE

The Lower East Side, home to generations of immigrant newcomers, is undergoing a transformation into a high-rent neighborhood. Cute little bistros have been inching into new gentrified stretches south of Delancey Street. And the neighborhood has even given birth to its own homegrown star chefs, wildly creative renegades with cultish followings like wd~50’s Wylie Dufresne.

’inoteca.

$$ | ITALIAN | The Italian terms on the menu may be a little daunting, but the food is not. An Italian small-plates concept with an excellent by-the-glass wine list, this rustic eatery is perpetually packed. (Reservations are accepted for parties of six or more.) Come for cheese and charcuterie plates, the famous truffled egg toast, and delicious panini sandwiches filled with cured meat, runny cheeses, and hot peppers. Menu staples include fresh salads and creative entrées like lentils, fennel, celery root, capers, and saffron, and roast lamb cannelloni with white beans, spinach, and pecorino with house-made sausage. | 98 Rivington St., at Ludlow St., Lower East Side | 10002-2202 | 212/614–0473 | www.inotecanyc.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: F, J, M, Z to Delancey St.

Fodor’s Choice | Katz’s Delicatessen.

$ | DELI | Everything and nothing has changed at Katz’s since it first opened in 1888, when the neighborhood was dominated by Jewish immigrants. The rows of Formica tables, the long self-service counter, and such signs as “Send a salami to your boy in the army” are all completely authentic. What’s different are the area’s demographics, but all types still flock here for succulent hand-carved corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, soul-warming soups, juicy hot dogs, and crisp half-sour pickles. | 205 E. Houston St., at Ludlow St., Lower East Side | 10002-1017 | 212/254–2246 | www.katzdeli.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: F to 2nd Ave.

Rayuela.

$$$ | LATIN | The young and sexy frequent this vibrant Lower East Side restaurant to sample Latin cuisine courtesy of Máximo Tejada, the chef who built his reputation cooking at the popular (now closed) Lucy’s Latin Kitchen. This bi-level eatery and bar has a dining area, a ceviche bar, and—growing in the center of the restaurant—an olive tree. The menu features small plates with more than a dozen ceviches and tapas, including the must-have lobster with Uruguayan caviar. If you’d like a predinner drink,

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