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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [196]

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upstairs bar is a great end-of-day meet-up spot for pert cocktails and appetizers, and the vast downstairs is like a dining hall in a medieval castle, complete with a communal table spanning the room. Co-executive chefs Yang Huang and Brian Ray prepare ethereal tuna spring rolls that are narrow flutes of ruby tuna tartare in a crisp contrapuntal fried shell, and edamame dumplings reveal a creamy, light green center. Crisp-tender sizzling short ribs are served with tender, wide noodles and highly comforting results, and there are dozens of other tempting dishes large and small. Considering the droves of patrons, service is surprisingly attentive. | 75 9th Ave., between 15th and 16th Sts., Chelsea | 10011-7006 | 212/989–6699 | www.buddakannyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: A, C, E to 14th St.; L to 8th Ave.

Cookshop.

$$ | AMERICAN | One of far-west Chelsea’s first hot restaurants, Cookshop (from the same team as Five Points and Hundred Acres) manages a casual elegance while focusing on seasonal, farm-fresh cuisine. Specials and purveyors are scrawled on a large blackboard in the airy, well-lighted space. Outdoor seating is a noisy but great way to survey a cross section of gallery-hoppers and shoppers toting bags from nearby Chelsea Market. Cocktails here are divine, integrating herbs and unique spirits into drinks like the strawberry caipirinha, which infuses fresh berries with cachaca and thyme (snack on salty fried hominy while sipping). Line up early for brunch; it’s worth the wait for dishes like baked eggs over duck and Swiss chard, or the fluffiest pancakes in town. Dinner is also a triumph, with a variety of perfectly prepared dishes like whitefish with lemony asparagus and hen-of-the-woods mushroom or a simply roasted chicken. | 156 10th Ave., at 20th St., Chelsea | 10011-4758 | 212/924–4440 | www.cookshopny.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: A, C, E to 23rd St.

R.U.B. BBQ.

$ | BARBECUE | Among the American barbecue capitals, Kansas City’s smoked fare stands out as perhaps the most versatile, characterized by dry rubs with sauces strictly on the side. Executive chef Paul Kirk is from Kansas City and is a legend on the growing New York City barbecue competition circuit. This is not a restaurant for the timid of appetite. Platters are so bountiful that even the side dishes come in overwhelming quantities. The shameless menu promises everything from beef, pork, ham, pastrami, and turkey to chicken, sausage, and, of course, ribs. Burned ends—delicious charred-crisp, rich edges of beef brisket—are legendary, and they sell out every night. For dessert, don’t miss the batter-fried Oreos. In fact, many items on the menu sell out by 8 pm, so it’s wise to arrive fairly early. | 208 W. 23rd St., between 7th and 8th Aves., Chelsea | 10011-2306 | 212/524–4300 | www.rubbbq.net | Reservations not accepted | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: 1, C, E, F M to 23rd St.

Fodor’s Choice | Tía Pol.

$$ | SPANISH | This tiny, dark, out-of-the-way, but highly popular tapas bar is usually packed, but there are good reasons for that: it’s one of the best in town, with a welcoming vibe, a dozen reasonably priced Spanish wines by the glass, and charm to spare. The tables and stools are small (and high), but the flavors are enormous. One of the most original tapas has become a signature here: bittersweet chocolate smeared on a baguette disc and topped with salty Spanish chorizo. Patatas bravas (rough-cut potatoes deep-fried and served with a dollop of spicy aioli) are so addictive, you won’t want to share them. The pork loin, piquillo pepper, and mild tetilla cheese sandwich is scrumptious, and so is the Galician octopus terrine. In fact, everything on the menu is transporting and delicious. | 205 10th Ave., between 22nd and 23rd Sts., Chelsea | 10011-4719 | 212/675–8805 | www.tiapol.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | No lunch Mon. | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

GREENWICH VILLAGE

Greenwich Village’s bohemian days may have faded with the Beatnik era, but the romantic allure of its tiny bistros, bars, and cafés remains.

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