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are Ramsay’s trembling acolytes producing flawless facsimiles of his classically muted haute cuisine. The flagship fine-dining restaurant is an exorbitant time commitment, with menus that start at $110 for three courses and stretch to $150 for seven. It is hidden behind opaque glass doors just beyond the comparatively casual, and much more reasonably priced, Maze. The lower-key annex, in a silver-gray dining room, specializes in elegant small-plate cuisine (often very small). Although dinner is a mix-and-match affair, Maze’s $35 prix-fixe three-course lunch is one of the top bargains in Midtown. | 151 W. 54th St., between 6th and 7th Aves., Midtown West | 10019-5302 | 212/468–8888 | www.thelondonnyc.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch. No dinner Sun. and Mon. | Subway: B, D, E to 7th Ave.; N, Q, R to 57th St.

The Lambs Club.

$$$ | NEW AMERICAN | Daddy Warbucks would like it here. Restaurateur Geoffrey Zakarian has opened an opulent supper club on the ground floor of the brand-new Chatwal Hotel, complete with Art Deco detailing, red-leather banquettes, and an antique fireplace grill that was discovered and refurbished. Cocktails are from drinks hipster guru Sasha Petraske, but he eschews experimental in the service of classics like the sidecar and the martini, done well. The food is typical Zakarian, meaning New American cuisine with luxe touches in dishes like veal sweetbreads with peppered jus and grilled treviso lettuce, or seared scallops with porcini mushrooms and Indian-spiced sauce. Desserts, like double-chocolate ginger cake with poached pears, are worth the splurge. | 132 W. 44th St., between 6th Ave. and Broadway, Midtown West | 10036 | 212/997–5262 | www.thelambsclub.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3 to 42nd St., B, D, F, M to 47th–50th Sts./Rockefeller Center.

Le Bernardin.

$$$$ | FRENCH | Owner Maguy LeCoze presides over the teak-panel dining room at this trendsetting French seafood restaurant, and chef-partner Eric Ripert works magic with anything that swims—preferring at times not to cook it at all. Deceptively simple dishes such as poached lobster in rich coconut-ginger soup or crispy spiced black bass in a Peking duck bouillon are typical of his style. It is widely agreed that there’s no beating Le Bernardin for thrilling cuisine, seafood or otherwise, coupled with some of the finest desserts in town and a wine list as deep as the Atlantic. | 155 W. 51st St., between 6th and 7th Aves., Midtown West | 10019-6019 | 212/554–1515 | www.le-bernardin.com Jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. | Subway: 1 to 50th St.; R to 49th St.; B, D, F, M to 47th–50th Sts./Rockefeller Center .

Le Pain Quotidien.

$ | CAFÉ | This international Belgian chain brings its homeland ingredients with it, treating New Yorkers to crusty organic breads, jams, chocolate, and other specialty products. You can grab a snack to go or stay and eat breakfast, lunch, or dinner at communal or private tables with waiter service. Come for a steaming latte and croissant in the morning or a tartine (open-faced sandwich) at noon. There are more than 20 units in New York City; check the restaurant’s Web site for additional locations. | 1271 Avenue of the Americas, at 50th St. Midtown West | 10020-1300 | 646/462–4165 | www.lepainquotidien.com| Subway: B, D, F, V to 47–50th Sts./Rockefeller Center.

Lugo Caffé.

$$ | ITALIAN | The area around Madison Square Garden is a restaurant wasteland with the rare sparkling exception of Lugo Caffé, founded by an Italian menswear line. Locals rejoiced at the introduction of this spacious Italian “brasserie” offering comfort food with a Dolce Vita twist all day long. Stop by for an espresso and pastry in the morning. Later, a single menu presents lunch, aperitivo, and dinner options, which include grazing portions of salumi, cheeses, and vegetable dishes like eggplant caponata, Tuscan bean salad, and grilled zucchini with pine nuts. Fuller meals of Neapolitan-style pizzas, house-made pastas, and grilled meats and fish also are commendable. | 1 Penn Plaza, 33rd St. and 8th Ave., Midtown