New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [224]
Carmine’s.
$$ | ITALIAN | Set on a nondescript block of Broadway, this branch of the Italian family-style mainstay is a favorite for families celebrating special occasions, pre-prom groups of teens, and plain old folks who come for the tried-and-true menu items like fried calamari, linguine with white clam sauce, chicken parmigiana, and veal saltimbocca, all served in mountainous portions. Family photos line the walls, there’s a groaning antipasti table filled with savory meats, cheese, and salads, and there’s a convivial feeling amid the organized chaos. On weekends, only parties of six or more can make dinner reservations. | 2450 Broadway, between 90th and 91st Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/362–2200 | www.carminesnyc.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3, to 96th St./Broadway
Dovetail.
$$$$ | AMERICAN | Inside Dovetail, chef-owner John Fraser’s subdued town house and restaurant, cream-color walls and maple panels create a warm, soothing atmosphere, and a recent expansion allows for more dining-room space and a larger bar area. The menu, which changes daily, features refined but hearty dishes. Seek solace from winter temperatures with the earthy gnocchi topped with matsutake mushrooms, poppy seeds, and lemon. Tender lamb is heightened by potatoes, artichokes, and olives. The savory feast continues with pastry chef Michael Shelkowitz’s Earl Grey pumpkin cake with lemon curd and cinnamon-toast ice cream. | 103 W. 77th St., at Columbus Ave., Upper West Side | 10024-6909 | 212/362–3800 | www.dovetailnyc.com | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch Mon.–Thurs., Sat., or Sun. | Subway: 1 to 79th St.; B, C to 81st St./Museum of Natural History .
Fatty Crab.
$ | MALAYSIAN | The uptown branch of Zac Pelaccio’s downtown Malaysian street-food joint has two major advantages over its downtown sibling: more seats and a reservations line. Other than that, the menu mimics the Hudson Street locale’s laundry list of crowd-pleasing favorites, like coconut-rich short rib Rendang and soft buns filled with Berkshire pork, cilantro, and savory sauce. Perhaps in deference to the child-toting population in the neighborhood, there’s spacious outdoor seating perfect for parking strollers. | 2170 Broadwaybetween 76th and 77th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/496–2722 | www.fattycrab.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St./Broadway
Jean Georges.
$$$$ | FRENCH | This culinary temple in the Trump International Hotel and Towers focuses wholly on chef celebre Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s spectacular creations. Some approach the limits of the taste universe, like foie-gras brûlée with spiced fig jam and ice-wine reduction. Others are models of simplicity, like slow-cooked cod with warm vegetable vinaigrette. Exceedingly personalized service and a well-selected wine list contribute to an unforgettable meal, as do tattooed celeb pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini’s rock-and-roll desserts, like a lemon ice cream filled with house-made pop rocks. For Jean Georges on a budget, try the prix-fixe lunch in the front room, Nougatine. | 1 Central Park W, at W. 59th St., Upper West Side | 10023-7703 | 212/299–3900 | www.jean-georges.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St./Columbus Circle .
Kefi.
$ | GREEK | Michael Psilakis’s homage to his grandmother’s Greek cooking has moved to an expansive space a few blocks north of the now-closed original location. Among the mezes, the meatballs with roasted garlic, olives, and tomato is a standout; the flavorful roast chicken, potatoes, red peppers, garlic, and thyme makes for a winning entrée, and the béchamel-rich Kefi mac ’n cheese is irresistible. Reasonable prices—appetizers are no more than $9.95, and main courses max out at $16.95—make it easy to stick around for a piece of traditional walnut cake with walnut ice cream. | 505 Columbus Ave., between 84th and 85th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024-6230 | 212/873–0200 | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch Mon. | Subway: 1 to 86th St.; B, C to 86th St.
Fodor’s Choice | Marea.
$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Carefully