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| With clubby interiors by Jeffrey Beers and an adjoining lounge area, Porter House marks the splashy return to the scene of former Windows on the World chef Michael Lomonaco. Filling the meat-and-potatoes slot in the Time Warner Center’s upscale “Restaurant Collection,” the masculine throwback highlights American wines and pedigreed super-size meat. The neighborhood, long underserved on the steak-house front, has quickly warmed to Lomonaco’s simple, solid American fare. Begin with his smoky clams casino or rich roasted marrow bones. Steaks are huge and expertly seasoned, and come with the usual battery of à la carte sides—creamed spinach, roasted mushrooms, and truffle mashed potatoes. | 10 Columbus Circle, 4th fl., at 60th St., Upper West Side | 10019-1158 | 212/823–9500 | www.porterhousenewyork.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1, A, B, C, D to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Salumeria Rosi.

$ | ITALIAN | Just up the block from Gray’s Papaya sits this compact temple to a whole different subset of cured meats. Chef Cesare Casella has created a showcase for dozens of varieties of prosciutto, coppa, mortadella, and more, carved from a professional slicer for consumption on the spot or as indulgent takeout from the immaculate glass-walled display case. There’s also a more ambitious menu, including a salad of arugula and lemon with Parmesan, and a lusty osso buco over creamy mashed potatoes. If you’re lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the avuncular chef with his signature rosemary sprig peeking out from his breast pocket. | 283 Amsterdam Ave., between 73rd and 74th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/877–4700 | www.salumeriarosi.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St./Broadway

Sarabeth’s.

$$ | AMERICAN | Lining up for brunch here is as much an Upper West Side tradition as taking a sunny Sunday afternoon stroll in nearby Riverside Park. Locals love the bric-a-brac–filled restaurant for sweet morning-time dishes like lemon ricotta pancakes, as well as for the comforting dinners. The afternoon tea includes buttery scones with Sarabeth’s signature jams, savory nibbles, and outstanding baked goods. Dinner entrées include chicken potpie and truffle mac ’n cheese. | 423 Amsterdam Ave., at W. 80th St., Upper West Side | 10024-5856 | 212/496–6280 | www.sarabeth.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Fodor’s Choice | Shake Shack.

¢ | BURGER | Local restaurant legend Danny Meyer has gone a little low-brow with his fast-ish food venture, Shake Shack—and New Yorkers are loving it. The Upper West Side Shack is an eat-in joint just across Columbus Avenue from the American Museum of Natural History. Although the lines may be long at lunchtime, the grub is good and well priced. Fresh steer burgers are ground daily, and a single will run you from $3.75 to $4.75, depending on what you want on it. For a few more bucks you can also order doubles and stacks or a vegetarian ‘Shroom Burger—a melty Muenster and cheddar cheese–stuffed portobello. The Shake Shack also offers beef and bird (chicken) hot dogs, french fries, and a variety of delicious frozen custard desserts and—of course—thick shakes! | 366 Columbus Ave., at W. 77th St., Upper West Side | 10024-5109 | 646/747–8770 | www.shakeshacknyc.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: B, C to 81st St.

Telepan.

$$$ | AMERICAN | Chef-owner Bill Telepan is a regular at the neighborhood greenmarket, and it shows in his seasonal, produce-driven menu, which is divided into three courses: appetizers of salads, light fish dishes, and soups; middle courses of eggs, pasta, or vegetables; and main courses of meat and fish. A trio of tiny amuses-bouches such as wild mushroom cappuccino arrives to tease your palate, and the servers are refreshingly well versed on the wine list. The menu features brook trout, served on celery-root blini with green-apple sour cream, a well-deserved favorite, as is anything on the menu that contains eggs, like the “egg-in-a-hole” served with spinach and hen-of-the-woods mushrooms. For dessert, a crunchy peanut-butter and milk-chocolate gianduja duo with peanut-brittle ice cream is sublime.