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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [274]

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best regional Italian fare in Brooklyn Heights. Locals especially rave about the osso buco served with goat-cheese polenta. It does get crowded, but that means it’s noisy enough that you can bring the kids. Note that reservations are accepted only for parties of six or more. | 38 Henry St., near Cranberry St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/625–3737 | No credit cards | No lunch | Subway: A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.

Teresa’s.

$ | POLISH | At the end of Montague Street, right before the entrance to the Promenade, this busy mom-and-pop coffee shop serves Polish and American comfort food, including breakfast all day. Fill up on delicate cheese blintzes, pierogi, and juicy kielbasa. | 80 Montague St., near Hicks St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/797–3996 | MC, V | Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; R to Court St.

WHERE TO STAY IN BROOKLYN HEIGHTS

New York Marriott at the Brooklyn Bridge.

$$ | What Manhattan hotel has room for an Olympic-length lap pool, an 1,100-car garage, and even a dedicated kosher kitchen? Just like many New Yorkers before you, you’ll find that one virtue of staying in Brooklyn is all the extra space. Rooms are classic Marriott—large, comfortable, plain guest rooms enhanced by niceties such as high ceilings, massaging showerheads, and rolling desks. If you’re looking to explore, some of the borough’s best neighborhoods—Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens, and DUMBO, as well as the Brooklyn Bridge pedestrian path—are just a five-minute walk. If you need to get to Manhattan, major subway lines are a block away or a few short minutes by taxi. Pros: near some of New York’s hipper neighborhoods; full-service hotel; stylish rooms. Cons: on a busy street in downtown Brooklyn. TripAdvisor: “wonderful breakfast buffet,” “exceptional staff,” “first class service.” | 333 Adams St., between Johnson and Willoughby Sts., Downtown Brooklyn | 11201 | 718/246–7000 or 888/436–3759 | www.marriott.com/nycbk | 666 rooms, 25 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, gym, laundry service, Wi-Fi hotspot, parking (paid) | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall.

PERFORMING ARTS

MUSIC

Bargemusic.

A re-outfitted harbor barge with a fabulous view of the Manhattan skyline keeps chamber music groups busy year-round. | Fulton Ferry Landing,Old Fulton and Furman Sts., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/624–2083 | www.bargemusic.org | Subway: A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.

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Exploring | Where to Eat | Galleries | Nightlife | Shopping

A downhill walk from Brooklyn Heights is the area called DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). It was once known as Fulton Landing, after the inventor and engineer Robert Fulton, who introduced steamboat ferry service from Brooklyn to Manhattan in 1814.

Factories and dry-goods warehouses thrived here until the Manhattan Bridge was completed in 1909. DUMBO then fell on hard times, but since the 1970s artists have been drawn by the historic warehouses for use as spacious studios. Today the area is full of luxury condos, art galleries, and small businesses.

The Fulton Ferry Landing’s view of Manhattan and the Brooklyn Bridge makes it a favorite site for wedding photos; the New York Water Taxi stops here as well. When all that sightseeing makes you hungry, walk uphill to the always excellent, always crowded, Grimaldi’s Pizzeria and the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. Wander the empty, old cobblestone streets for photo ops (try to frame the Empire State Building within the anchorage of the Manhattan Bridge), and visit the art galleries and boutiques.

EXPLORING DUMBO

Empire Fulton Ferry Park.

This charming 9-acre park is a great place for a riverside picnic or to just enjoy the view. The large playground includes a replica of a boat for make-believe voyages across the East River. From April to October the park is home to a wide range of arts performances, and on Thursday nights in July and August,

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