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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [291]

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many have left the borough, but they still return for authentic restaurants, grocery stores, and churches. Here you can buy kalamata olives and salty sheep’s-milk feta from storeowners who can tell you where to go for the best spinach pie.

Today substantial numbers of Asian, Eastern European, Irish, and Latino immigrants also live in Astoria. The heart of what remains of the Greek community is on Broadway, between 31st and Steinway streets. Thirtieth Avenue is another busy thoroughfare, with almost every kind of food store imaginable.

Astoria is also home to the nation’s only museum devoted to the art, technology, and history of film, TV, and digital media. The newly-redone Museum of the Moving Image has countless hands-on exhibits that allow visitors to edit, direct, and step into favorite movies and television shows.

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EXPLORING LONG ISLAND CITY AND ASTORIA

Top Attractions

Fodor’s Choice | MoMA PS1.

A pioneer in the “alternative-space” movement, PS1 rose from the ruins of an abandoned school in 1976 as a sort of community arts center for the future. MoMA PS1 focuses on the work of currently active experimental and innovative artists. Long-term installations include work by Sol LeWitt and Pipilotti Rist. Every available corner of the enormous 100-room building is used; discover art not only in galleries but also on the rooftop, in the boiler room, and even in some bathrooms. On summer Saturdays from 3 to 9 pm outdoor dance parties attract a hip art-school crowd. | 22–25 Jackson Ave., at 46th Ave., | Long Island City | 11101 | 718/784–2084 | www.ps1.org | $10 suggested donation, free with MoMA entrance ticket | Thurs.–Mon. noon–6 | Subway: 7 to 45th Rd.–Courthouse Sq.; E, M to 23rd St.–Ely Ave.; G to 21st St.

Museum of the Moving Image.

Like switching to a widescreen television, the newly renovated Museum of the Moving Image is twice as nice as before. The new Thomas Lesser design includes a three-story addition and a panoramic entrance to this museum full of Hollywood and television memorabilia. Exhibitions range from “Behind the Screen” which demonstrates how movies are produced and shot to watching the live editing of Mets baseball games as they happen on SNY. Classic family films are shown as matinees on Saturdays and Sundays, while the museum also has a section devoted to video artists for visitors looking for some culture. Film buffs will love the film retrospectives, lectures, and other special programs. | 35th Ave. at 37th St., | Astoria | 11106 | 718/784–0077 | www.movingimage.us | $10; free after 4 on Fri. | Wed. and Thurs. 10:30–5, Fri. 11–8, weekends 10:30–7:00 | Subway: R, M to Steinway St.; N to 36th Ave.

Filmmaking in Astoria

Hollywood may be the king of moviemaking now, but in the early days of sound Queens was where it was at. In the 1920s such stars as Gloria Swanson, Rudolph Valentino, and Claudette Colbert all acted in one of the more than 100 films made at Astoria Studios. Opened in 1920 by the film company that would become Paramount, “the Big House” was the largest and most important filmmaking studio in the country.

Though Astoria’s ideal location provided easy access to Broadway and vaudeville stars, Hollywood’s weather soon lured away most studios. Astoria was able to hold its own for a while longer, creating such films as the Marx Brothers classics The Cocoanuts and Animal Crackers. But in 1942 the studio was sold to the U.S. Army. It became the Signal Corps Photographic Center, producing training films and documentaries, including Frank’s Capra’s classic seven-film series Why We Fight. The army retained the studio until 1970.

In 1980 the city leased the studio to real-estate developer George S. Kaufman, in partnership with Alan King and Johnny Carson. Kaufman-Astoria Studios, with six stages, is a thriving operation once again, used for television series (Sesame Street, Law & Order) as well as movies (The Wiz, Hair, and The Pink Panther). Although the studio is not open to the public, movie buffs can hope to spot stars at the Studio Café and

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