New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [38]
The area where Grove and Bedford streets intersect is among the most beautiful in the Village. These streets still feel like 19th-century New York, with simple redbrick homes from the early part of the century as well as a clapboard home and even a home built to resemble a Swiss chalet. Commerce Street, the location of the historic Cherry Lane Theatre, is undoubtedly one of the city’s most romantic lanes. Minetta Lane, a “hidden” alley dating from the city’s speakeasy history, lies between Washington Square Park and 6th Avenue, and is now home to the innovative Minetta Lane Theatre and Minetta Tavern.
BLEECKER STREET’S LITTLE ITALY
Little Italy can be besieged by slow-moving crowds, touristy shops, and restaurant hosts hollering invites as you pass to dine inside. With its crowded cafés, bakeries, pizza parlors, and old-world merchants, Bleecker Street between 6th and 7th avenues seems more vital as a true Italian neighborhood.
For an authentic Italian bakery experience, step into Pasticerria Rocco (No. 243) for wonderful cannoli, cream puffs, and cookies packed up, or order an espresso to linger over the treats.
Step into the past at the old-style butcher shops, such as Ottomanelli & Sons (No. 285) and Faicco’s Sausage Store (No. 260), where Italian locals have gotten their pork custom cut since 1900.
The sweet (or stinky) smell of success seems nowhere more evident than at Murray’s Cheese (No. 254), at Cornelia Street. The original shop, opened in 1940 by Murray Greenberg (not Italian), was not much larger than the display case that stocked the stuff. Now it’s a fromage fiend’s emporium, with everything from imported crackers and bamboo cutting boards to a full-service sandwich counter. Samples of cheese, gelato, salami, and other goodies are frequently offered.
In a town that’s fierce about its pizza, some New Yorkers swear by John’s Pizzeria (No. 278). But be forewarned: they do whole thin-crust pies only—no individual slices. Luckily, one of the city’s best slice joints is right around the corner, Joe’s Pizza (7 Carmine St.). To complicate the Bleecker Street pizza situation further, newcomer Kesté Pizza & Vino (271 Bleecker St.) is serving up Neapolitan pies that some would argue give even Da Michele in Naples a run for its money. It is also the official location in the United States for the Associazione Pizzaiuoli Napoletani, whose mission is to protect and promote the Neapolitan pizza tradition.
HALLOWEEN IN THE VILLAGE
All things weird and wonderful, all creatures great and squall, all things witty and fantastical, New York City has them all—and on All Hallows’ Eve they freak through the streets in New York’s Halloween parade. White-sheeted ghouls feel dull compared with fishnets and leathers, sequins and feathers posing and prancing along 6th Avenue in this vibrant display of vanity and insanity.
In 1973 mask maker and puppeteer Ralph Lee paraded his puppets from house to house visiting friends and family along the winding streets of his Greenwich Village neighborhood. His merry march quickly outgrew its original, intimate route and now, decades later, it parades up 6th Avenue, from Spring Street to 21st Street, attracting 90,000 creatively costumed exhibitionists, artists, dancers, and musicians, hundreds of enormous puppets, scores of bands, and more than 2 million spectators. Anyone with a costume can join in, no advance registration required, although the enthusiastic interaction between participants and spectators makes it just as much fun to watch. It’s a safe “street event” for families and singles alike, and a joyful night unlike any other.
The parade lines up on 6th Avenue between Canal and Spring streets from 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm. The walk actually starts at 7 pm, but it takes about two hours to leave the staging area. It’s best