New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [65]
Although a glance up and down the manicured grass meridian of Park Avenue may conjure scenes from Bonfire of the Vanities or Gossip Girl, there are more than palatial apartments, elite private schools, and highfalutin clubs up here—starting with fantastic museums. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, the Whitney Museum, and many others lie on and around “Museum Mile”, as do a number of worthy art galleries. For a local taste of the luxe life, hit up the platinum-card corridor that is Madison Avenue for its lavish boutiques, marble-counter cafés, and the epitome of class, the Carlyle Hotel.
Venture east of Lexington Avenue and you encounter a less wealthy—and more diverse—Upper East Side, one inhabited by couples seeking some of the last (relatively) affordable places to raise a family south of 100th Street, and recent college grads getting a foothold in the city (on weekend nights 2nd Avenue resembles a miles-long fraternity and sorority reunion).
One neighborhood particularly worth exploring is northeast-lying Yorkville, especially between 78th and 86th streets east of 2nd Avenue. Once a remote hamlet with a large German population, its several remaining ethnic food shops, 19th-century row houses, and, one of the city’s best-kept secrets, Carl Schurz Park, make for a good half-day’s exploration, as does touring most striking residence there, Gracie Mansion.
PLANNING
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME
The Upper East Side lends itself to a surprising variety of simple but distinct itineraries: regimented hopping up and down Museum Mile; languorous gallery-grazing; window-shopping on Madison Avenue; or bar-hopping for just-out-of-college kids on 2nd Avenue. The Upper East Side’s town houses, boutiques, consignment stores, and hidden gardens are easy to miss unless you take some time to wander. If all that walking wears you out, you can always hit one of the nail salons and indulge in a neighborhood stereotype of the pampered Upper East Sider. A well-deserved post–Museum Mile foot rub and mani/pedi are surprisingly reasonably priced.
GETTING HERE
Take the Lexington Avenue 4 or 5 express trains to 59th or 86th Street. The 6 local train also stops at 59th, 68th, 77th, 86th, and 96th streets. If you’re coming from Midtown, the F train will let you out at Lexington Avenue at 63rd Street, where you can transfer to the 4, 5, and 6 after a short walk (and without paying subway fare again). From the Upper West Side, take one of the crosstown buses, the M66, M72, M79, M86, and M96. You can also take the N or R train to 59th Street and Lexington Avenue.
FODOR’S CHOICE
Gracie Mansion
TOP EXPERIENCES
Enjoying a spin through the Neue Galerie and eating at Café SobarksySpending an afternoon at locals’ favorite, the Frick
Seeing premier collections at the Guggenheim or the Whitney
Window-shopping on Madison Avenue
TOP TOURING EXPERIENCES
NEW YORK’S LAP OF LUXURY
Walking up Madison Avenue between East 60th and East 82nd Street is like stepping into the pages of a glossy magazine. Many fashion houses have their flagships here and showcase their lush threads in equally exquisite settings.
Compared with the megastores of Midtown, Madison Avenue feels quieter; it’s significantly less crowded and more conducive to leisurely shopping (window or otherwise). Beyond clothing, the boutiques here carry baubles to satisfy anyone’s champagne wishes, whether it’s a box of truffles at La Maison du Chocolat, an intriguing read at Crawford Doyle Booksellers, or a piece of contemporary silver tableware at Christofle (680 Madison Ave. | 212/308–9390).
For a break, grab a seat at a café, such as Sant Ambroeus, and take in the fashion show on the sidewalk. End the day in style with dinner at Café Boulud or a drink at one of the neighborhood’s sleek lounges or bars.
A NEIGHBORHOOD IN EVERY BLOCK
The Upper East Side is more than just an enclave for the wealthy. In fact, a great way to experience Manhattan’s hodgepodge of communities is to walk east from 5th Avenue to the East River—zigzagging to include