New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [81]
The following are some of the uptown churches with gospel choirs:
Abyssinian Baptist Church is one of the few churches that does not allow tour groups. Services for visitors are at 11. Arrive at least two hours ahead of time for this service. Canaan Baptist Church of Christ has services at 8 and 11. Convent Avenue Baptist Church (420 W. 145th St., between Convent and St. Nicholas Aves., Harlem | 212/234–6767 | www.conventchurch.org) has services at 8, 11, and 5. First Corinthian Baptist Church has services at 8 and 11.
Greater Refuge Temple (2081 Adam Clayton Powell Jr. Blvd., at 124th St., Harlem | 212/866–1700 | www.greaterrefugetemple.org) has services at 11, 4, and 7:30. Memorial Baptist Church (141 W. 115th St., between Adam Clayton Powell Jr. and Malcolm X Blvds., Harlem | 212/663–8830 | www.mbcvisionharlem.org) has services at 8 and 11.
Some of Harlem’s most interesting religious buildings—especially its Baptist churches—stand on 116th Street, particularly between St. Nicholas Avenue and Lenox (Malcolm X) Boulevard. Admire the ornate theatrical facade of the giant First Corinthian Baptist Church or fill your soul with the mellifluous gospel music of the Canaan Baptist Church of Christ’s choir during a Sunday service. Take a hint from the parishioners and follow up with the smothered chicken and waffles at Amy Ruth’s, at 113 W. 116th. After lunch, walk by the green-domed Masjid Malcolm Shabazz—a mosque attended primarily by West Africans and African-Americans. Finish at Malcolm Shabazz Harlem Market to stock up on African jewelry, masks, crafts, and caftans at good prices. On Saturday, the jazz players jam at the market from 1:30 to 3.
RELIVE THE JAZZ AGE
It was in Harlem that Billie Holiday got her first singing job, Duke Ellington made his first recording, and Louis Armstrong was propelled to stardom. Jazz was king during the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s and ’30s, and though Chicago and New Orleans may duke it out for the “birthplace of jazz” title, New York was where jazz musicians came to be heard.
In the 1920s socialites made the trek uptown to Harlem’s Cotton Club and Connie’s Inn (131st Street and 7th Avenue) to hear “black” music. Both clubs were white-owned and barred blacks from entering, except as performers. (The rules changed years later.) Connie’s introduced New Yorkers to Louis Armstrong. The Cotton Club—Harlem’s most popular nightspot by far—booked such big names as Fletcher Henderson, Coleman Hawkins, Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, and Ethel Waters. After shows ended at the paying clubs, musicians would head to after-hours establishments with black patrons, such as Small’s Paradise, Minton’s Playhouse, and Basement Brownies, where they’d hammer out new riffs into the wee hours.
Today several parts of Manhattan are known for their jazz venues, but old-time clubs like the Lenox Lounge still hash it out unlike anywhere else. Why? Partly because of history and sense of place, and partly because of—as musicians claim—the more easygoing nature of uptown clubs, which tend to have more flexible sets and open jam sessions. You can’t go back in time to Harlem’s jazz heyday, but you might catch a modern-day jazz great in the making.
Many of Harlem’s historic jazz venues (found mostly on 125th Street) are still active, so pay respect to the legends like Duke Ellington and Louis Armstrong, then listen to one of their musical heirs. A giant digital marquee announces the Apollo Theatre, where jazz and funk godfather James Brown debuted in 1956 and was laid out in splendor after his death in 2006. (Following this tradition, king of pop Michael Jackson was also given a final farewell here in 2009.)
Around the corner, the Lenox Lounge (288 Lenox Ave., at W. 125th St.) is a trip back in time. Continue the pilgrimage at Minton’s Playhouse (206 W. 118th St.), the birthplace of bebop, where Thelonious Monk was house pianist in the 1940s. It reopened in 2006 after being closed since 1974. If you’re here on Thursday or Friday, when exhibits are open until 9 pm, check out the contemporary