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T-shirts). The collection includes many of Hugo’s own, sometimes macabre, ink drawings (he was a fine artist) and furniture from several of his homes. Particularly impressive is the room of carved and painted Chinese-style wooden panels that Hugo designed for Juliette Drouet’s—his mistress—house on the island of Guernsey, during the writer’s exile there. Try to spot the intertwined Vs and Js. (Hint: Look for the angel’s trumpet in the left corner.) | 6 pl. des Vosges, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–42–72–10–16 | www.musee-hugo.paris.fr | Free; €7 for temporary exhibitions | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Station: St-Paul.

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme (Museum of Jewish Art and History).

This excellent museum traces the tempestuous history of French and European Jews through art and history. Opened in 1998 in the refined 17th-century Hôtel St-Aignan, exhibits have good explanatory texts in English, and the free English audio guide is a must; guided tours in English are also available upon request. Highlights include 13th-century tombstones excavated in Paris; a wooden model of a destroyed Eastern European synagogue; and a roomful of early paintings by Marc Chagall. | 71 rue du Temple, Le Marais | 75004 | 01–53–01–86–53 | www.mahj.org | €6.80 | Weekdays 11–6, Sun. 10–6 | Station: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville.

Parc de La Villette.

This 130-acre ultramodern park was once an abattoir, but don’t let its history put you off: today it’s the perfect place to entertain sightseeing-weary kids, with lots of green space, a submarine, and the Espace Chapiteaux, a circus tent featuring superb contemporary acrobatic theater performances. The highlight is the excellent science museum, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie (30 av. Corentin-Cariou, La Villette | 75019 | 01–40–05–80–00 | www.cite-sciences.fr | €3–€15.50 | Tues.–Sat. 10–6, Sun. 10–7 | Station: Porte de la Villette). Nearby, La Géode, looks like a huge silver golf ball but it’s actually an Omnimax cinema made of polished steel. The complex includes the postmodern Cité de la Musique, a music academy and concert hall, and the Musée de la Musique, with an impressive collection of some 900 musical instruments. (221 av. Jean-Jaurès, La Villette | 75019 | 01–44–84–44–84 | www.cite-musique.fr | €8 | Tues.–Thurs. noon–6, Fri–Sat. noon–10, Sun.10–6 | Station: Porte de Pantin).

THE ILE ST-LOUIS AND THE LATIN QUARTER

Set behind the Ile de la Cité is one of the most romantic spots in Paris, tiny Ile St-Louis. Of the two islands in the Seine—the Ile de la Cité is just to the west—the St-Louis best retains the romance and loveliness of le Paris traditionnel. It has remained in the heart of Parisians as it has remained in the heart of every tourist who came upon it by accident, and without warning—a tiny universe unto itself, shaded by trees, bordered by Seine-side quays, and overhung with ancient stone houses. Up until the 1800s it was reputed that some island residents never crossed the bridges to get to Paris proper—and once you discover the island’s quiet charm, you may understand why. South of the Ile St-Louis on the Left Bank of the Seine is the bohemian Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter), the heart of student Paris for more than 800 years. The neighborhood takes its name from the fact that Latin was the common language of the students, who came from all over Europe. Today the area is full of cheap and cheerful cafés, bars, and shops, and even Roman ruins.

France’s oldest university, La Sorbonne, was founded here in 1257 as a theology school; later it became the headquarters of the University of Paris. In 1968, the student revolution here had an explosive effect on French politics, resulting in major reforms in the education system. The aging soixante-huitards continue to influence French politics, as shown by the election of openly gay, Green Party member Bertrand Delanoë to the mayoralty of Paris.

TOP ATTRACTIONS ON THE ILE ST-LOUIS AND THE LATIN QUARTER

Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (Great Hall of Evolution).

With a parade of taxidermied animals ranging from the tiniest dung beetle to