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and three fish mains. Dill-marinated salmon with sweet mustard sauce is a typical starter, and a thick, milk-fed veal chop might come with a squash pancake and spinach. The dining room buzzes with locals who appreciate the good-value €32 prix-fixe and the brilliant bento-box-style €15 lunch menu, in which three courses are served all at once. | 8 rue de Vaugirard, St-Germain-des-Prés | 01–43–26–36–36 | www.laferrandaise.com | AE, MC, V | Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat. | Station: Odéon, RER: Luxembourg.

Le Comptoir du Relais Saint-Germain.

$$$ | BISTRO | Run by legendary bistro chef Yves Camdeborde, this tiny Art Deco hotel restaurant is booked up several months in advance for the single dinner sitting that comprises a five-course, €48 set menu of haute-cuisine-quality food. On weekends and before 6 PM during the week a brasserie menu is served and reservations are not accepted, resulting in long lineups and brisk service. Start with charcuterie or pâté, then choose from open-face sandwiches, salads, and a handful of hot dishes such as braised beef cheek, roast tuna, and Camdeborde’s famed deboned and breaded pig’s trotter. Sidewalk tables make for prime people-watching in summer and Le Comptoir also runs a down-to-earth snack shop next door that serves crepes and sandwiches. | 9 carrefour de l’Odéon, St-Germain-des-Prés | 75006 | 01–44–27–07–50 | AE, DC, MC, V | Station: Odéon

Ze Kitchen Galerie.

$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | William Ledeuil made his name at the popular Les Bouquinistes (a Guy Savoy baby bistro) before opening this contemporary bistro in a loftlike space. If the name isn’t exactly inspired, the cooking shows creativity and a sense of fun: from a deliberately deconstructed menu featuring raw fish, soups, pastas, and à la plancha (grilled) plates, consider the roast and confit duck with a tamarind-and-sesame condiment and foie gras, or lobster with mussels, white beans, and Thai herbs. A tireless experimenter, Ledeuil buys heirloom vegetables direct from farmers and tracks down herbs and spices in Asian supermarkets. The menu changes monthly and there are several different prix-fixe options at lunch, starting at €29. | 4 rue des Grands-Augustins, Quartier Latin | 75006 | 01–44–32–00–32 | www.zekitchengalerie.fr | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. | Station: St-Michel

7E ARRONDISSEMENT (TOUR EIFFEL/INVALIDES)

Chez les Anges.

$$$ | BISTRO | In the 1960s and ’70s, Chez les Anges served celestial Burgundian cooking; the restaurant went through several incarnations since, but now, under new owner Jacques Lacipière, who runs the popular bistro Au Bon Accueil, it has recovered the original name and spirit, with some updating. The €34 daily-changing menu from chef Hidenori Kitaguchi is a notch above bistro fare. Lacipière goes further than most in his quest for quality products, bringing back ingredients such as line-caught sole and scallops every week from the town of St-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie on the Atlantic coast. | 54 bd. de la Tour-Maubourg, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75007 | 01–47–05–89–86 | AE, MC, V | Closed weekends | Station: La Tour–Maubourg

Fodor’s Choice | Hiramatsu.

$$$$ | FRENCH FUSION | In this Art Deco dining room near Trocadéro, Hajime Nakagawa continues his variations on the subtly Japanese-inspired French cuisine of restaurant namesake Hiroyuki Hiramatsu, who still sometimes works the kitchen. Luxury ingredients feature prominently in dishes such as thin slices of lamb with onion jam and thyme-and-truffle-spiked jus, or an unusual pot-au-feu of oysters with foie gras and black truffle. For dessert, a mille-feuille of caramelized apples comes with rosemary sorbet. Helpful sommeliers will guide you through the staggering wine list, with more than 1,000 different bottles to choose from. There’s no way to get away cheaply, so save it for a special occasion, when you might be tempted to order a tasting menu for €95 or €130 (lunch menus start at €48). | 52 rue de Longchamp, Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel | 75016 | 01–56–81–08–80 | www.hiramatsu.co.jp/fr | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V