Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [167]
DANCE
The biggest news on the French dance scene is the spanking new Centre National de la Danse (1 rue Victor Hugo, | Pantin | 93507 | 01–41–83–98–98 | www.cnd.fr | Station: Hoche; RER: Pantin), which was sidelined by problems for a decade but finally opened in a former jail in the Pantin suburb of Paris. Dedicated to teaching dance, there’s also a regular program of performances, expositions, and conferences open to the public. The super-spectacular 19th-century Opéra Garnier (Pl. de l’Opéra, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 9e | 75009 | 08–92–89–90–90 [€0.34 min] | www.opera-de-paris.fr | Station: Opéra) is home to the reputable Ballet de l’Opéra National de Paris and hosts other dance companies. Note that many of the cheaper seats have obstructed views, more of an obstacle in dance than in opera performances. At its two houses, the Théâtre de la Ville (2 pl. du Châtelet, Beaubourg/Les Halles, 4e | 75004 | 01–42–74–22–77 for both | www.theatredelaville-paris.com | Station: Châtelet | 31 rue des Abbesses, Montmartre, 18e | 75018 | Station: Abbesses) is the place for contemporary dance. Troupes like Anne-Teresa de Keersmaeker’s Rosas company are presented here and sell out quickly.
OPERA
Paris offers some of the best opera in the world—and thousands know it. Consequently, it’s best to plan ahead if you’d like to attend a performance of the Opéra National de Paris at its two homes, the Opéra de la Bastille and the Opéra Garnier. Review a list of performances by checking the Web site | www.opera-de-paris.fr.For performances at either the Opéra de la Bastille or the Opéra Garnier (for complete info on this theater, see Dance, above), seats go on sale at the box office two weeks before any given show or a month ahead by phone or online; you must go in person to buy the cheapest tickets. Last-minute discount tickets, when available, are offered 15 minutes before a performance for seniors and anyone under 28. The box office is open 11 to 6:30 PM daily. Prices for tickets start at €5 for standing places (at the Opéra Bastille, only) and go up to €200.
The Opéra de la Bastille (Pl. de la Bastille, Bastille/Nation, 12e | 75012 | 08–92–89–90–90 [€0.34 min] | www.opera-de-paris.fr | Station: Bastille), a modern auditorium, has taken over the role of Paris’s main opera house from the Opéra Garnier. The grandest opera productions are usually mounted here, while the Garnier now presents smaller-scale operas such as Mozart’s La Clemenza di Tito and Così Fan Tutte. Gorgeous though the Garnier is, its tiara-shape theater means that many seats have limited sight lines, so it’s best to ask specifically what the sight lines are when booking (partial view in French is visibilité partielle). Needless to say, the cheaper seats are often those with partial views—of course, views of Garnier’s house could easily wind up being much more spectacular than any sets on stage, so it’s not really a loss. The opera season usually runs September through July; the box office is open Monday–Saturday 11–6:30.
The Opéra Comique (5 rue Favart, Opéra/Grands Boulevards, 2e | 75002 | 08–25–00–00–58 | www.opera-comique.com | Station: Richelieu-Drouot) is a gem of a house that stages operettas, modern dance, classical concerts, and vocal recitals. Tickets range from €6–€50 and can be purchased at the theater, by mail, online, or by