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Like bistros and brasseries, cafés come in a confusing variety. Often informal neighborhood hangouts, cafés may also be veritable showplaces attracting chic, well-heeled crowds. At most cafés the regulars congregate at the bar, where coffee and drinks are cheaper than at tables. At lunch tables are set, and a limited menu is served. Sandwiches, usually with jambon (ham), fromage (cheese), or mixte (ham and cheese), are served throughout the day. Casse croûtes (snacks) are also offered. Cafés are for lingering, for people-watching, and for daydreaming. If none of these options fit the bill, head to the nearest traiteur (deli) for picnic fixings.

Breakfast is usually served from 7:30 AM to 10 PM, lunch from noon to 2 PM, and dinner from 7:30 PM to 10 PM. Restaurants in Paris usually serve dinner until 10:30 PM.

PAYING

By French law, prices must include tax and tip (service compris or prix nets), but pocket change left on the table in basic places, or an additional 5% in better restaurants, is always appreciated. Beware of bills stamped service not included in English. The following is the price chart used throughout this book to determine price categories for all restaurants. Prices are per person for a main course at dinner, including tax (5.5%) and service; note that if a restaurant offers only prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it is given a price category that reflects the full prix-fixe price.

CATEGORY COST

$$$$

Over €32

$$$

€25-€32

$$

€18-€24

$

€13-€17

¢

under €13

ELECTRICITY

The electrical current in France is 220 volts, 50 cycles alternating current (AC); wall outlets take Continental-type plugs, with two round prongs.

Consider making a small investment in a universal adapter, which has several types of plugs in one lightweight, compact unit. Most laptops and mobile phone chargers are dual voltage (i.e., they operate equally well on 110 and 220 volts), so require only an adapter. These days the same is true of small appliances such as hair dryers. Always check labels and manufacturer instructions to be sure. Don’t use 110-volt outlets marked FOR SHAVERS ONLY for high-wattage appliances such as hair dryers.

Contacts: Steve Kropla’s Help for World Traveler’s (www.travelnow.com) has information on electrical and telephone plugs around the world. Walkabout Travel Gear (www.walkabouttravelgear.com) has good coverage of electricity under “adapters.”

EMERGENCIES

For minor emergencies, contact a generalist who will actually visit you in your home or hotel, medical bag in hand, at any hour of the day or night, whether you’re in the city or on the outskirts of a tiny town. Hospital emergency rooms should be used only for emergencies.

France’s emergency services are conveniently streamlined. Every town and village has a médecin de garde (on-duty doctor) for flus, sprains, tetanus shots, and similar problems. Larger cities have a remarkable house-call service called “SOS Médecins” (SOS Doctors, or “SOS Dentistes” for dental emergencies); dial |08–20–33–24–24. The cost is minimal, compared to the United States, about €60 for a house call. If you need an X-ray or emergency treatment, call an ambulance (dial | 15). Note that outside Paris it’s difficult to find English-speaking doctors.

Pharmacies can be helpful with minor health problems and come equipped with blood-pressure machines and first-aid kits. They also can be consulted for a list of practicing doctors in the area, nearby hospitals, private clinics, or health centers.

On the street the French phrases that may be needed in an emergency are: Au secours! (Help!), urgence (emergency), samu (ambulance), pompiers (firemen), poste de station (police station), médecin (doctor), and hôpital (hospital).

HOLIDAYS

With 11 national jours feriés (holidays) and at least five weeks of paid vacation, the French have their share of repose. In May there’s a holiday nearly every week, so be prepared for stores, banks, and museums to shut their doors for days at a time. Be sure to call museums, restaurants, and hotels in advance to