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These days, the easiest way to get euros is through ATMs; you can find them in airports, train stations, and throughout the city. ATM rates are excellent because they’re based on wholesale rates offered only by major banks. It’s a good idea, however, to bring some euros with you from home and always to have some cash on hand as backup.

Currency Conversion: X-Rates (www.x-rates.com). Oanda.com (www.oanda.com). XE.com (www.xe.com).

PASSPORTS

All Canadian, U.K., and U.S. citizens, even infants, need only a valid passport to enter France for stays of up to 90 days.

We’re always surprised at how few Americans have passports—only 25% at this writing. This number is expected to grow in coming years, when it becomes impossible to re-enter the United States from trips to neighboring Canada or Mexico without one. U.S. passports are valid for 10 years. You must apply in person if you’re getting a passport for the first time; if your previous passport was lost, stolen, or damaged; or if your previous passport has expired and was issued more than 15 years ago or when you were under 16. All children under 18 must appear in person to apply for or renew a passport. Both parents must accompany any child under 14 (or send a notarized statement with their permission) and provide proof of their relationship to the child.

There are 13 regional passport offices, as well as 7,000 passport acceptance facilities in post offices, public libraries, and other governmental offices. If you’re renewing a passport, you can do so by mail. Forms are available at passport acceptance facilities and online. The cost to apply for a new passport is $100 for adults, $85 for children under 16; renewals are $75. Allow six weeks for processing, both for first-time passports and renewals. For an expediting fee of $60 you can reduce this time to about two weeks. If your trip is less than two weeks away, you can get a passport even more rapidly by going to a passport office with the necessary documentation. Before your trip, make two copies of your passport’s data page (one for someone at home and another for you to carry separately). Or scan the page and e-mail it to someone at home and/or yourself.

U.S. Passport Information: U.S. Department of State (0877/487–2778 | http://travel.state.gov/passport/).

SAFETY

Beware of petty theft—purse snatching, pickpocketing, and the like—throughout France, particularly in Paris and along the Côte d’Azur. Use common sense: avoid pulling out a lot of money in public; wear a handbag with long straps that you can sling across your body, bandolier style, with a zippered compartment for your money and passport. Men should keep their wallets up front. When withdrawing money from cash machines, be especially aware of your surroundings and anyone standing too close. If you feel uneasy, press the cancel button (annuler) and walk to an area where you feel more comfortable. Incidents of credit-card fraud are on the rise in France, especially in urban areas; be sure to collect your receipts, as these have recently been used by thieves to make purchases over the Internet. Car break-ins, especially in isolated parking lots where hikers set off for the day, are on the rise. It makes sense to take valuables with you or leave your luggage at your hotel.

Note one cultural difference: a friendly smile or steady eye contact is often seen as an invitation to further contact; so, unfortunately, you should avoid being overly friendly with strangers—unless you feel perfectly safe.

TIP Distribute your cash, credit cards, IDs, and other valuables between a deep front pocket, an inside jacket or vest pocket, and a hidden money pouch. Don’t reach for the money pouch once you’re in public.

TAXES

All taxes must be included in posted prices in France. The initials TTC (toutes taxes comprises—taxes included) sometimes appear on price lists but, strictly speaking, they’re superfluous. By law, hotel prices must include 19.6% taxes and a service charge of 5.5% is charged for food in restaurants. If they show