Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [21]
Sa.Qua.Na.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Chef Alexandre Bourdas earned his first Michelin star in 2008, a mere nine months after opening, and single-handedly put Honfleur on the gastronomic map. From the small but ravishing dining room to the impeccable presentation, his restaurant is a study in getting it right down to the smallest detail. Surprising combinations—dorade with pigs’ feet and edamame beans; roast chicken with blood orange and juniper—attest to Bourdas’s far-flung influences: his native Aveyron, Japan (where he cooked for three years), and the regional fare he seeks out daily from local farmers and fishermen. Having also worked as a pastry chef, Bourdas creates all of his own desserts, like the glorious feuille de nougatine cacao with white chocolate and black truffles. Along with two sublime tasting menus, the chef has thoughtfully provided an €18 menu for kids under 10. Bien sûr, reserve well in advance. | 22 Pl. Hamelin | 14600 | 02–31–89–40–80 | www.alexandre-bourdas.com | MC, V | Closed Sun. and Mon. and Jan. and Feb. No lunch weekdays.
WHERE TO STAY IN HONFLEUR
Ferme St-Siméon.
$$$$ | The story goes that this 19th-century manor house was the birthplace of Impressionism, and that its park inspired Monet and Sisley. Inside, the decor is a rich mix of 19th-century elegance—rich fabrics, grand paintings, Louis Seize chairs—and down-home Norman delights, with rustic antiques, ancient beams, and half-timbered walls casting a deliciously cozy spell. Guest rooms are opulent, with pastel colors, floral wallpaper, antiques, and period accents. Those in the converted stables are quieter but have less character. Be aware, however, that the high prices have more to do with the hotel’s reputation than with the amenities it offers (although spa treatments are among them). Under chef Patrick Ogheard, the sophisticated restaurant specializes in fish; the cheese board does justice to the region, as does the €129 gastronomic menu. A second (slightly) more modest restaurant, La Table Toutain, opened in 2007. Pros: famed historic charm. Cons: expensive; bland annex rooms. | Rue Adolphe-Marais on D513 to Trouville | 14600 | 02–31–81–78–00 | www.fermesaintsimeon.fr | 32 rooms, 3 suites | In-room: no a/c, refrigerator, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, tennis court, pool, some pets allowed | AE, MC, V | MAP.
L’Absinthe.
$$–$$$ | A 16th-century presbytery with stone walls and beamed ceilings houses a small and charming hotel and the acclaimed restaurant of the same name. Guest rooms are comfortable but small, except for the attic suite, which has a private living room; Nos. 2 and 3 have a view of the harbor. The elegant and cozy reception area is adorned with an imposing stone fireplace. Chef Antoine Ceffrey is famous for his seasonal seafood and fish dishes such as turbot grilled with leeks. On sunny days request a table on the terrace. The Grenouille brasserie serves simpler fare. Pros: enchanting building; superb restaurant. Cons: small rooms; gawky blend of old/modern furnishings. | 10 quai de la Quarantaine | 14600 | 02–31–89–23–23 | www.absinthe.fr | 10 rooms, 2 suites | In-room: a/c, safe. In-hotel: restaurant, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec. | MAP.
La Petite Folie.
$$–$$$ | Charming simply doesn’t suffice to describe this beautifully renovated 1830s town house a stone’s throw from Honfleur’s old port (nearby landmark: the birthplace of composer Eric Satie). No luxury was spared in appointing the main house’s five rooms, whose design credits read like an A-list of Paris notables, including fabrics by Pierre Frey and Porthault linens. Although lavished with antiques, the rooms feel surprisingly contemporary (flat-screen TVs), and the sleek, modern bathrooms are equipped with glassed-in showers, except for the roomy La Directoire, which sports a capacious claw-foot tub. For those seeking a bit more space or privacy, the half-timbered 14th-century sea captain’s house next door (complete with 400-year-old sailor’s graffiti) offers three apartments, one more