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lobby is a Belle Époque blowout, with soaring oak walls, a forest of columns, and islands of comfy, 19th-century-style armchairs. The courtyard is its outdoor version, with a grassy patio surrounded by a spectacular panoply of turrets and balconies. Request a room with a sea view, and don’t forget to ask about the special thalassotherapy rates with full or half days of mud baths, salt massages, and soothing heated-seawater swims. Creamy sauces swamp the Norman dishes served up in the L’Étrier restaurant, set in a grand hall which, on a bright night, after a couple of bottles of Dom Pérignon, glitters like the salons of Versailles. Pros: spectacular decor; luxurious amenities; Deauville’s place to be seen. Cons: some elements of kitschy bombast; patronizing service. | 38 rue Jean-Mermoz | 14800 | 02–31–98–66–22, 800/223–5652 for U.S. reservations | www.normandy-barriere.com | 290 rooms, 31 suites | In-room: no a/c, safe, refrigerator, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: 2 restaurants, bar, pool, some pets allowed | AE, DC, MC, V | BP.

NIGHTLIFE AND THE ARTS IN DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

One of the biggest cultural events on the Norman calendar is the weeklong American Film Festival, held in Deauville in early September. Formal attire is required at the Casino de Deauville (2 rue Edmond-Blanc | 14800 | 02–31–14–31–14). Trouville’s Casino de Trouville (Pl. du Maréchal-Foch | 14800 | 02–31–87–75–00) is slightly less highbrow than Deauville’s.Night owls enjoy Le Privé (13 rue Albert-Fracasse, | 14800 | Deauville); it’s open until 5 AM. The Y Club (14 bis, rue Désiré-le-Hoc, | 14800 | Deauville) is the place to go out dancing.

SPORTS AND THE OUTDOORS IN DEAUVILLE-TROUVILLE

Deauville becomes Europe’s horse capital in August, when breeders jet in from around the world for its yearling auctions and the races at its two attractive hippodromes (racetracks). Afternoon horse races are held in the heart of Deauville at the Hippodrome de Deauville—La Toques (Blvd. Mauger | 14800 | 02–31–14–20–00). Horse races and polo can be seen most summer afternoons at the Hippodrome de Deauville Clairefontaine (Rte. de Clairefontaine | 14800 | 02–31–14–69–00). Head for the Poney Club (Rue Reynoldo-Hahn | 14800 | 02–31–98–56–24) for a wonderful horseback ride on the beach. (The sunsets can be spectacular.) It’s open weekends and holidays, but be sure to call early to reserve a horse, or a pony for your little one. Sailing boats large and small can be rented from the Club Nautique de Trouville (Digue des Roches Noires | 14800 | 02–31–88–13–59).

CAEN

54 km (35 mi) southwest of Deauville-Trouville, 28 km (17 mi) southeast of Bayeux, 120 km (75 mi) west of Rouen.

With its abbeys and castle, Caen, a busy administrative city and the capital of Lower Normandy, is very different from the coastal resorts. William of Normandy ruled from Caen in the 11th century before he conquered England. Nine hundred years later, during the two-month Battle of Caen in 1944, a fire raged for 11 days, devastating much of the town. Today the city is basically modern and commercial, with a vibrant student scene. The Caen Memorial, an impressive museum devoted to World War II, is considered a must-do by travelers interested in 20th-century history (many avail themselves of the excellent bus tours the museum sponsors to the D-Day beaches). But Caen’s former grandeur can be seen in its extant historic monuments and along scenically restored Rue Ecuyère and Place St-Sauveur.

Getting Here and Around

Trains from Paris (Gare St-Lazare) leave for Caen every two hours or so (€29); the 150-mi trip takes less than two hours. Some trains continue to Bayeux (2 hrs, €43). Several trains daily link Caen to Rouen (90 mins, €25) and St-Lô (45 mins, €13.50). Bus Verts du Calvados (08–10–21–42–14 | www.busverts.fr) operates buses every two hours or so from the Caen train station to Le Havre (2 hrs, 15 mins; €10.20) via Deauville (75 mins, €5.10) and Honfleur (1 hr, 45 mins; €7.20).

Visitor Information

Caen Tourist Office.

| Pl. du Canada | 14000 | 02–31–27–90–30 | www.tourisme.caen.fr.

EXPLORING CAEN