Normandy, Brittany & the Best of the North_ With Paris (Fodor's) - Fodor's [27]
Visitor Information
Bayeux Tourist Office.
| Pointe Saint-Jean | 14400 | 02–31–51–28–28 | www.bessin-normandie.fr.
EXPLORING BAYEUX
Bayeux offers both sides of the coin, old and new. The Old-World mood is at its most boisterous during its Fêtes Médiévales, a market-cum-carnival held in the streets around the cathedral on the first weekend of July. A more traditional market is held every Saturday morning. But more modern sights await if you use Bayeux as a fine starting point for visits to Normandy’s stirring World War II sites; there are many custom-tour guides, but Taxis du Bessin (02–31–92–92–40) is one of the best.
Really a 225-foot-long embroidered scroll stitched in 1067, the Bayeux Tapestry, known in French as the Tapisserie de la Reine Mathilde (Queen Matilda’s Tapestry), depicts, in 58 comic strip–type scenes, the epic story of William of Normandy’s conquest of England in 1066, narrating Will’s trials and victory over his cousin Harold, culminating in the Battle of Hastings on October 14, 1066. The tapestry was probably commissioned from Saxon embroiderers by the count of Kent—who was also the bishop of Bayeux—to be displayed in his newly built cathedral, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame. Despite its age, the tapestry is in remarkably good condition; the extremely detailed, often homey scenes provide an unequaled record of the clothes, weapons, ships, and lifestyles of the day. It’s showcased in the Musée de la Tapisserie (Tapestry Museum; free headphones let you to listen to an English commentary about the tapestry). | Centre Guillaume-le-Conquérant, 13 bis, rue de Nesmond | 14400 | 02–31–51–25–50 | www.tapisserie-bayeux.fr | €7.80, includes admission to Musée Baron-Gérard | May–Aug., daily 9–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 9:30–12:30 and 2–6.
Housed in the Bishop’s Palace beneath the cathedral, and fronted by a majestic plane tree planted in March 1797 and known as the Tree of Liberty, the Musée Baron-Gérard contains a fine collection of Bayeux porcelain and lace, ceramics from Rouen, a marvelous collection of pharmaceutical jars from the 17th and 18th centuries, and 16th- to 19th-century furniture and paintings by local artists. | 1 pl. de la Liberté | 14400 | 02–31–92–14–21 | €3.50 (€7.80 with Tapestry Museum) | Daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.
Bayeux’s mightiest edifice, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame, is a harmonious mixture of Norman and Gothic architecture. Note the portal on the south side of the transept that depicts the assassination of English archbishop Thomas à Becket in Canterbury Cathedral in 1170, following his courageous opposition to King Henry II’s attempts to control the church. | Rue du Bienvenu | 14400 | 02–31–92–01–85 | Daily 9–6.
Handmade lace is a specialty of Bayeux. The best place to learn about it and to buy some is the Conservatoire de la Dentelle near the cathedral, which has a good display. | 6 rue du Bienvenu | 14400 | 02–31–92–73–80 | Free | Mon.–Sat. 10–12:30 and 2:30–6.
At the Musée de la Bataille de Normandie (Battle of Normandy Museum), exhibits trace the story of the struggle from June 7 to August 22, 1944. This modern museum near the moving British War Cemetery, sunk partly beneath the level of its surrounding lawns, contains some impressive war paraphernalia. | Bd. du Général-Fabian-Ware | 14400 | 02–31–51–46–90 | www.normandiememoire.com | €6.50 | May–Sept., daily 9:30–6:30; Oct.–Apr., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.
WHERE TO EAT AND STAY IN BAYEUX
Château d’Audrieu.
$$$–$$$$ | Princely opulence, overstuffed chairs, wall sconces, antiques: this family-owned château with an elegant 18th-century facade fulfills a Hollywood notion of a palatial property. Guest rooms 50 and 51 have peaked ceilings with exposed-wood beams. The enchanting restaurant (closed Monday; no lunch weekdays)—all white wainscoting, crystal chandeliers,